Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - The basic style of the official uniform system of the Ming Dynasty

The basic style of the official uniform system of the Ming Dynasty

According to the famous popular novel "Jin Ping Mei" during the Ming Wanli period, the description of the clothing worn by women at that time, the upper lapel shirts, jackets, under the picket skirts, all kinds of high-soled shoes, and then in the cold days in the shirts outside the wear than the armor, or skirts inside the set of knee pants, the forehead wrapped eyebrow lei, combing the head in a fake bun, inserting and wearing a hairpin Tin hairpin comb and bead hoops (with gold, jade, bead and stone for flowers and birds, long column sideburns called hairpin, the small ones are called swatches), wearing bracelets, rings, ears wear earrings, earrings, chest hanging gold and jade ornaments "drop collar", skirt waist wear seven things (made of jade called "forbidden step"), dress waist wearing Earrings, earrings, chest hanging gold and jade ornaments "fall collar", skirt waist wear seven things (made of jade name "forbidden step"), is the best fashionable attire, and the Song Dynasty women's fashion lineage. Lapel shirt, jacket and pick line skirt, high bottom shoes supporting fashion, materials, colors, technology are very sophisticated, can be cited as evidence of the "Plum in the Golden Vase" depicted a few examples, such as: ① "on the wear fragrant color silk (Shanxi Lu'an state, now Changzhi production) goose with reed-like lapel jacket, white damask vertical collar, make-up flower eyebrow, slippery gold bee catching the electronic buttons (the collar of the Ming Dynasty women's shirts with metal snap buttons) (one or two, the rest with a knot), under a foot wide seahorse tide cloud (pattern) sheepskin gold along the edge (with thin sheepskin lined with gold foil cut into gold leather strips nailed embroidered into the border) pick line skirt (with silk thread will be skirt folds picking joints so that skirt folds stereotypes of the skirt), red satin (surface) white damask high sole shoes (in the sole of the heel padded with an oblong high sole, Beijing Dingling Mausoleum was unearthed pointedly cocked phoenix head high sole shoes, shoes, long 12 centimeters, high sole length 7 centimeters, width 5 centimeters, height 4.5 centimeters, height 5 centimeters, height 4.5 centimeters, high sole, high sole, high sole and high heel. 5 centimeters, 4.5 centimeters high), makeup flower knee pants, green gemstone pendant, bead hoop."

②"The family often pulls a nest of silk Hangzhou save, gold tired silk hairpin, cui plum flower inlay child, bead hoop child, gold cage pendant. Wearing a white damask lapel jacket on top and a red skirt underneath."

③"Wearing sedum-colored water weft Luo lapel shirt on top, jade-colored crepe brow, underneath the white polished silk pick line skirt, ...... silver silk 〓 bun on the head, gold compartment jade toad palace folding laurel centered cui mei inlaid child."

4 "On the upper wear willow-green hang silk lapel jacket, light blue water silk skirt, gold and red phoenix head high sole shoes."

⑤ "Wearing a raven-green satin jacket, a goose-yellow silk skirt, and peach-red suede sheepskin shoes with gold rolled mouths and high soles."

6 "The upper wear silver-red yarn and white silk lined placket shirt, bean green along the edge of the gold and red heart than armor, white hang silk painting drag skirt, pink flowers Luo high sole shoes."

Six examples quoted above, the first example is warm with gray tone blouse and gold color underwear, red and white shoes match, colorful and not into the vulgar. The second example is a white blouse with a red skirt, with gold and green hollowing sleeves to form a local contrast, forming a lively and bright tone. The third example of warm gray blouse and bright white skirt to form a gentle and elegant colors. The fourth example of willow green blouse and light blue skirt, is plain and elegant similar colors, with gold and red phoenix head shoes for a small area of contrast, so that the color is plain but not cold. The fifth example of raven green satin jacket and goose yellow silk skirt, peach red with gold shoes to form a contrast with each other, is extremely bold color scheme, due to the raven green character is stable, so the overall coordination, gorgeous and generous. The sixth example of the lapel shirt of silver red, than a golden red heart and shoes of pink is the same color, than a bean green along the edge of the contrast, lapel shirt of white silk and white silk paintings of the white silk skirt is to improve the overall color brightness, this is a red as the base of the contrasting color, bright and youthful sense. These color matching in gold with extremely discreet, play the role of the finishing touch. Such as a straightjacket (also known as straight pick up, straight body), the jersey, robe, this style of clothing body loose, wide sleeves, below the knee spelled a banner for the jersey, so it is also known as the jersey, surrounded by a large wide edge, the front Department of the two belts, for the ancient household clothing. Sui and Tang dynasties, the court and the people are wearing, the Ming Dynasty called straight jacket, Confucian students are wearing this garment, where the lifelong, Gongsheng, Supervisory students wear blue surrounded by black wide edge of the straightjacket, it is also known as the blue robe (after the lifelong, Gongsheng changed to wear black robes, the students are still wearing blue robes). Yuan, Ming monk robe and this style is the same. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Taizong set the common people to wear green cloth straight, is also this section. Folk song has: "two can be strange, two sleeves like a bag." This is because such loose-fitting clothing, showing the elegant style of Confucianism or scholar Yanju wild style is very appropriate, and as a civilian can not be adapted to the functional needs of the labor, the ballad regarded it as strange, it is not surprising.