Introduction to the materials of traditional Chinese clothing

There are two basic forms of traditional clothing, namely, the upper garment and lower garment system and the garment-connected system. It is said that the system of clothes on top and clothes underneath started in the legendary era of the Yellow Emperor, and it is written in "Yi - Xiang Ri Shi" that "The Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun draped their clothes and ruled the whole world, which was taken from Qiankun." This legend can be unearthed in Gansu in the pottery culture of colored pottery culture, be confirmed. This can be said to be the basic form of the earliest clothing system in China. Clothes under the clothing system, according to "interpretation of the name - interpretation of the clothes": "Where the clothes on the said clothes. Clothes, according to also, people rely on to avoid cold and heat. Under the said clothes. Clothing, barrier, so since the barrier also." The shape of the upper garment is mostly cross-necked right overlooking, the lower garment similar to the shape of the apron, the waist tie, the lower tie open. This kind of clothing system had a great influence on the later generations.

The system of clothing attached to a garment, anciently known as Shamyi, was first created in the Zhou Dynasty. According to a note in the Book of Rites - Deep Clothing, "The name is Deep Clothing, which means that the clothes are attached to the garment and purely used for picking." Shamyi is similar in structure to contemporary dresses, with the top and bottom of the garment sewn together at the waist, and the collar, sleeves, and train made of other fabrics or embroidered edges. This form of deep clothes, influence on the later dress, the Han Dynasty, women with it as a dress, ancient robes and shirts are also used in this form of clothing attached to the form.

Chinese clothing in the Xia, Shang and Zhou periods

The form of clothing in the primitive era, although there are individual archaeological data found, but due to the material is too small to make a detailed description of the dress of the period. During the Xia, Shang, and Zhou periods, the dress of the Central China Xia people was upper garment and lower garment, and the hair was bound and overlapped on the right. The stone statue of a slave owner unearthed in Anyang, Henan Province, wears a flat cap, a right-over-overlapping garment, a skirt, a large belt around the waist, wrapped legs, and bucktooth shoes. This largely reflects the situation of the Shang dynasty dress. At the beginning of the Zhou Dynasty, the system of rituals and music, the nobility and the commoners of the crown and clothing system made detailed provisions, the ruler to strict hierarchical clothing to show their dignity and majesty. The deep clothes and the coronet began in the Zhou Dynasty, and both systems of dress had a profound influence on later generations.

The emergence of hu clothing during the Spring and Autumn Period

The most important changes in clothing during the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States Periods were the widespread popularity of deep clothes and the emergence of hu clothing. The wars of the Spring and Autumn and Warring States Periods promoted the reform of the Han's broad-clothed, long-skirted, long-gowned garments. King Wuling of Zhao broke through resistance and ordered the whole country to wear the short clothes and long pants of the nomadic people for the sake of the army's fighting power, and learned to ride and shoot, which finally made the state of Zhao strong. This was the first clothing reform in Chinese history, and the hu uniform has been prevalent ever since. Along with the hu clothes also came the belt hook, which was used to end leather belts and quickly became popular because it was more convenient than the way leather belts were tied.

Related knowledge: "Hu" is a vague term, in different historical periods, sometimes refers to the Xiongnu, sometimes refers to the nomads from the northeast to the northwest, and sometimes even more broadly. Therefore, Hu clothing refers to the clothing of the nomadic people in northern China, who wear narrow-sleeved short clothes, long pants and boots for the need of nomadic horseback riding. Shen Kuo said: "China's clothing, since the Northern Qi Dynasty, is all with Hu clothing." A "full" word, or put the words a little too much, but Hu clothing on the development of Han clothing is indeed extremely influential.

The establishment of the traditional crown system in the Han Dynasty

Deep clothes were still popular in the Han Dynasty, which was the period when the traditional crown system was established. The pants of the Han Dynasty were open-crotch, pants, ancient name of dude. The Shuo Wen: "dude, shin clothes also." Shiyi nian - interpretation of clothing ":" haan, across also, the two strands of each across the other also." It can be seen that at that time, the hakama was open crotch, covered with a garment or deep clothes. After the full-crotch pants, but the crotch pants still exist for a long time.

The popularity of hu clothes in the period of Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties

The period of Wei, Jin and North and South Dynasties is another period of great transformation in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. As a large number of ethnic minorities entered the Central Plains, hu clothes became a commonplace attire in the society, and the clothing of the common people in general was most strongly influenced by hu clothes. They absorbed the narrow sleeves and tightness, round neckline, slits and other elements of the hu clothing into their original costumes. Han aristocrats also changed on the basis of the hu suit by lengthening its length, increasing the cuffs and pants, and changing the left overlapping to right overlapping. But the gown remained the traditional Han dress form.

The Transformation Period of Clothing in the Sui and Tang Dynasties

The Sui and Tang Dynasties, due to the political and economic stability and prosperity, made it possible to inherit the source of the historical dress from above, and to start the scripture of the dress system of the later generations from below, and so this period became an important historical period for the development of the ancient Chinese dress system. Men's regular clothes were turban, robe, and boots. But at this time the robe shirt and the previous dynasty is slightly different, the style for the round neck, right obeisance, narrow sleeves, the leader train without edge. In addition, there is also a robe shirt and lack of crotch robe shirt and other styles. This robe is mainly influenced by the hu clothing, and with the Han's living habits and ceremonial characteristics, formed the style of the robe in this period.

Song clothing tends to be conservative

Song clothing, largely inherited from the Tang system, but there are slight differences in clothing styles and names. The Song Dynasty lack of crotch robe shirt style has wide-sleeved large body and narrow-sleeved tight two kinds. Wear pasted and half-armed habit is extremely common, but can not be worn as a dress. In general, the dress of the Song Dynasty is more formal and conservative, the color is not as bright as before, giving people a sense of simplicity, cleanliness, elegance, which has a close relationship with the social conditions, especially the influence of the Cheng-Zhu theory.

Liao, Jin, Yuan period

Liao, Jin, Yuan period of dress both inherited the Han dress system, but also has the characteristics of the nation

Liao, Jin, Yuan period of dress has a **** the same characteristics, both inherited the Han, Tang and Song dynasty dress system, but also has the characteristics of the nation. Liao and Jin men's costumes are mostly round neck, sleeves of the lack of crotch robes, with long boots or pointed boots, wearing pants underneath, belt around the waist. Yuan dynasty men's clothing has the Han's round neck, cross-collar robe, there are also the national quality of the Sun clothing, its shape is similar to the deep clothes, narrow and thin sleeves, the lower garment is shorter, the length of the garment to the knee, there are countless pleats in the waist, shaped like a pleated skirt, in the waist, but also added a cross cross cross. There were right overlapping collars, square collars and disk collars. They wore pants with small mouths and boots with seams on the feet. Clothing color to white, blue, ochre-based. In addition, the Yuan Dynasty clothing in the material has changed greatly, due to the extensive cultivation of cotton, cotton cloth has become the main varieties of clothing materials.

Ming and Qing Dynasties

The costumes of Ming Dynasty inherited the previous generation, and the costumes of Qing Dynasty had a greater influence on the recent generation?

The costumes of the Ming Dynasty largely followed the Tang system, but certain styles in the Song and Yuan forms of clothing were also retained. Qing Dynasty clothing has a greater influence on modern clothing forms, Qing Dynasty men's clothing can be divided into two kinds: Manchu national costume; foreign Western clothing. The style of the Qing Dynasty robe is based on changes in the Han tradition and draws on the characteristics of Manchu clothing. Generally the sleeves are narrower and thinner, and the gowns are arrow sleeves, also known as horseshoe sleeves. The gown is tied with buttons. Right over big lapel, round neckline. Royal robe has four open air before and after the right and left, while the common people men can only open air in the left and right. Horse hanging is unique to the Qing dynasty Manchu-style clothing. It is mostly round neck, with a lapel, lapel, pipa lapel and other styles, with long sleeves, short sleeves, large sleeves, narrow sleeves, but are flat cuffs. Until the end of the Qing Dynasty and the introduction of Western clothing after the Xinhai Revolution, China's clothing has been a major change, entering the modern stage of clothing development.

3Categorization of the Han men's clothing

Coronation, to the emperor's crown is the most gorgeous. The system of pre-Qin coronation, divided into the upper garment and the lower garment. Clothes more black (Xuan Clothes), in order to image the sky; clothes more yellow (yellow clothes), in order to image the ground. There are also light reddish-red color. XuanYi wide sleeve, above with Zhu (red), white, pale (green), yellow, Xuan (black) five color silk painting (embroidery or weaving) out of the sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons, flowers and insects and other pictures. Shirt paintings were also embroidered with five-colored silk to depict Zong Yi (ceremonial vessels), Zao (water plants), fire and other motifs. The patterns of these drawings and motifs are collectively known as the 12 Chapter Patterns. The front of the garment has a leather opening, vermilion in color. On it are painted three chapters of dragon, fire and mountain, which are tied to a leather belt around the waist and sheltered in front of the knees on the face of the garment. Jade is worn on the side of the garment. At the back of the garment is a group of ribbons (a patterned pendant made of wide ribbons). The waist is also tied with a large belt.

Hair was tied at the top of the head, and a crown (hat) was placed on it, which was rolled up with a button in which a jade mat was inserted to fasten the crown to the hair. Crown on the coronet (a width of 0.8 feet, 1.6 long, rounded in front of the rear of the flat plate, also known as the coronet extension, the board for the wooden, to Xuan cloth on the surface, ochre cloth surface), the coronet extension before and after the uniformly pendant 12 tassels (with colored silk as a rope, string of colorful jade beads, known as the tassel), each tassel 12 jade, before and after the *** 24 tassels, *** with jade beads 228, known as the yuzao. Jade hanging next to the crown, the name "full ear". Foot wearing red slippers (thick-soled shoes, made of wood on the bottom of the shoes, slippers on the front of the head, wide, wide and high, the foot can put the floor of the long skirt before the train edge of the pick up, in order to step forward).

Later generations of gun coronet are in accordance with the pre-Qin system, with slight variations. The other candidates, the public, the Secretary, the coronet, the number of tassels in strict accordance with the provisions of the hierarchy in order to reduce to 9 tassels, 7 tassels, 5 tassels, 3 tassels have a difference in the number of tassels with the number of jade in order to reduce to 9 jade, 7 jade, 5 jade, 3 jade, etc., the clothes on the chapter pattern is also strictly in accordance with the hierarchical reduction, there are 9 chapters, 7 chapters, 5 chapters, 3 chapters of the difference. The name of the type of coronation, there are dozens of coronation, mountain coronation and so on.

Clothes and clothing connected to the deep robe clothing is the most versatile: can be used for civil and military officials of the secondary court dress, can also be used for the vassals and scholars Yanju evening dress, can also be used for the emperor does not see the court when the plainclothes. The deep coat is the only dress for the common people to wear when they participate in the sacrificial rites, and it can also be worn in marriage, funeral, and bingo ceremonies, and it can be worn by both men and women.

The commoners wore 襦裤, 襦, a short coat, on a daily basis. A short coat and long pants were the regular dress, without a skirt tied over it. The poor wore pleats, which were long coarsely woven jackets, mostly in green and black colors. Mourning clothes white.

Men's head for the bundle of hair, crown and bun. The shape of the crown has a high crown, the ben, sorghum crown, cage crown, small crown, turban, conical cap, hat and so on. The name of its fine other kinds of crowns and hats, such as the Commission appearance crown, Tongtian crown, far travel crown, into the sage crown, big hat, round hat, goose hat, Tang scarf, mat hat, etc., up to dozens of kinds. There are also wearing various types of head scarf such as four-way head scarf, ten thousand word scarf, cloud scarf, soft scarf, banner scarf, kudzu scarf, huayang scarf, etc., there are still areas of farmers wearing hats and hats.

Han women's clothing

Women's clothing, queens and noblewomen's gowns are mostly deep clothes, such as the "Records of Rites" on the list of the pre-Qin banter, Que Zhai, bow clothes, show clothes, Su Sa are deep clothes. The gowns for the rituals were painted (embroidered or woven) with five-color Zhai (brocade chicken)-shaped drawings. Jiuyi is yellow in color, and it is a suit for suing for mulberry (praying for the king's blessing for the success of mulberry cultivation and sericulture); Zhanyi is white, and it is a guest dress; and Suyi is a liner worn on the inside. Changsha Mawangdui unearthed silk paintings in the noblewoman clothes belong to the deep clothes type, Changsha Yangtianhu Chu Tomb unearthed Chu wooden figurines of women also serve deep clothes.

After the Han Dynasty, the dresses of queens and noblewomen were inherited from the pre-Qin system. But also developed a half-arm (half-sleeved tunic), Phi Pali (shoulder and back draped in a long painting silk), Xiapi (two from the shoulders of the broad width of the cape with birds and birds embroidered color silk, about 3 inches wide, the front hangs more than 3 feet, around the end of the lower end of the joint with a jade pendant, the back hangs more than 2 feet, the end of the inserted pockets), pasted together (four slits of the tunic), cape, girdle, waist, waist holders (long girdle), hanging sleeves and other costumes or clothing accessories. General women's daily clothing is mostly for the top and bottom of the dress separate skirt, but also outside the top and bottom of the pants do not tie the skirt. These clothes are a kind of traditional clothing of the Han nationality.

Ancient women's hair was pulled into a bun, and there were double buns, hanging buns, partial buns, flat buns, spiral buns, high buns, flying buns and other types of buns. There are dozens of specific names, such as bush combed buns, double ringed buns, buns, buns, turning lotus buns, treasure buns, flower buns and so on. Bun on the ornaments are combs, grates, hairpins, step rock, Cuiqiao, bead cui, gold and silver inlays, scratching the head, bead hoops, bead crowns, phoenix crowns, as well as gold, silver, beads and jade refined luanfeng, to Zhai, bead drops, beads, such as the card. Sideburns on both sides of the sideburns, there are also wearing a drapery hat, cover the head.

Traditional shoes and footwear of the Han people

Men and women have shoes underneath their feet, and their styles include shoes with the head cocked into a wutu head (rectangular plate shape), a phoenix head, and general cocked-tip shoes, as well as flat and rounded heads. Crawlers can be subdivided into slippers, sandals and shoes. Boots are a style introduced from ethnic minority areas. In the south, there are wooden clogs, which are easy and cool, and can be worn by both men and women regardless of rank. In rainy days, they wore spiked shoes, sewn with cowhide, with iron teeth on the soles. Southern fishermen go barefoot on their boats. Farmers in the rice growing areas have paddy fields to plow, also barefoot, on the can wear straw shoes.

Customs of the Qing Dynasty

The Manchurian rulers of the eight banners implemented a long three hundred and seventy years of "shaving hair and changing clothes", banning traditional Chinese clothing and forcing the Chinese to change to Manchu clothing, and from then on the Han Chinese dress disappeared in the Manchurian Qing Dynasty.

In the Qing Dynasty and the end of the modern era, Chinese men changed to wear the Manchu tunic, waistcoat, tangerine, and women changed to wear Manchu cheongsam and qipao. There were many styles and varieties of women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty, such as undershirts, a wrap-around, skirts, coats, cloud shoulders, scarves, hand cages, bustiers, belts, glasses and so on.

Cheongsam was designed and produced by the Manchurian flag people, and as a uniform of all the flag people (men, women, children and the elderly) a robe-type clothing, so it is called cheongsam, the Manchu language called "clothes". "Flag dress" is also called "flag dress", divided into single, clip, leather, cotton four kinds. Women wear long and feet of the flag dress, or cover the shoulders. Feet with long white stockings, wearing flowerpot bottom embroidered shoes, trouser legs tie green, red, pink and other colors leg bands. Clothing like to use a variety of colors and patterns of silk, flower satin, rosa or cotton and linen made of clothing. Some will be embroidered into a set of patterns on the surface of the flag, more in the lapel, cuffs, neckline, hem set with multiple layers of fine lace. Plate head wing, comb two head or flag bun. They like to wear earrings, bracelets, rings, headpins, big pompoms and sideburns and other decorations. There is a clear difference between this kind of "clothes with clothes" (in ancient times, the top was the clothes, the bottom was the clothes) and the Han Chinese dress, which is the two parts of the clothes on the top and the clothes on the bottom.

The traditional men's cheongsam robes are generally known as robes, coats and tunics. Therefore, the cheongsam is the traditional dress of the Chinese Manchus, not the Han Chinese or even all ethnic groups.