Brief introduction of song dynasty costumes

Song dynasty costume graphic? The Song Dynasty was founded in 960 AD, and the unified social situation brought the economic prosperity of the Song Dynasty. The basic national policy of "Yan Wu and Wen Xiu" makes Zhu Cheng's Neo-Confucianism gradually occupy a dominant position. Under the control of this thought, people's aesthetic concept has changed accordingly, and clothing has begun to advocate frugality and attach importance to following tradition. Simplicity and rationality became the main characteristics of costumes in Song Dynasty. "Crown and comb" women ("Mrs. Zhang's picture" in the Song Dynasty) wear the crown of children. Tian Tongguan in Song Dynasty includes a dark red tulle robe with Yunlong pattern, a white tulle shirt, a curved collar centered on a square (a lock-like decoration covering the neck below the upper ring to prevent the collar from tilting upwards, which means a round place), a dark red tulle skirt, a gold belt and a knee pad (hanging). It is an official costume after coronation. Emperors (statues of emperors of past dynasties in Nanxun Hall) wearing a crown, a crimson gauze robe and a square-hearted curved collar wear robes on important ceremonial occasions such as canonization and court meetings. Clothing is a one-piece garment with a top and skirt, which symbolizes the emotional singleness of women. Matching it is the gorgeous four phoenix crowns in Kowloon, with 12 large and small flower branches on the crown, and two leaf-shaped ornaments on the left and right of the crown, which are called Bo Hall or Yan Hall. The picture of emperor's coronation/queen's robes (selected from Nie Chongyi's Three Rites) was very popular in the Song Dynasty. Empresses wearing dragons, phoenixes, pearls and jade robes ("statues of emperors in Nanxun Hall") wear hoes, lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquered yarn, which are smooth and beautiful.

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The form of hoeing feet is mostly straight feet, that is, the shape in which the feet extend outward. In addition, there are Jiao Jiao and Chaotian Jiaotou, among which Jiao Jiao is sideways, with his feet leaning behind his hat; Tianzu is a hoe with two feet directly upturned on both sides of the back of the hat and intersecting. Emperors with straight feet and hoes (Nanxun Hall's old collection of emperors' statues), literati wearing scarves and robes (part of Song Yin's Road Map in Song Dynasty), emperors wearing ties and double-breasted shirts and officials wearing hoes (part of Qin Ting Map in Evonne)? Scholars with soft-footed robes (Evonne listened to the piano) had long sleeves on their backs in the Song Dynasty, which could not be opened under their armpits, that is, the front and back pieces of clothes were not sewn under their armpits. The back imitates the form of ancient clothes, with a belt under the armpit and a suffix on the back for decoration. The purpose of doing this is to show that "tradition is not forgotten". Because the maid often wears this kind of clothes and stands behind her master, she is named "Beizi". A lady wearing a piggyback (Song Dynasty's "Yao Tai Bu Yue Tu"), a zaju actress wearing a piggyback (Song Dynasty's "Zaju Figure Tu"), a portrait of a painted maid in Notre Dame de Jinci, Taiyuan City, with a bun tied on her head and a skirt with a piggyback. There were six skirts, eight skirts and twelve skirts in the Song Dynasty, and the same feature was that they were folded a lot. The decorative patterns on the skirt are colorful, such as painted, dyed, sold in gold and embroidered with pearls. The color of hellip& amphellip skirt is the most noble with the yellow dyed by tulip root; There is also a red skirt, which is worn by kabuki; The colorful pomegranate skirt is the most famous.

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Maids with short sleeves (painted sculptures of Notre Dame de Jinci, Taiyuan, Shanxi Province), ladies with long skirts (painted sculptures of Notre Dame de Jinci, Taiyuan, Shanxi Province), and women with long skirts (the picture of the princess bathing in the Song Dynasty) wear the crown of aristocratic women in the Song Dynasty and walk the high crown of previous lives. The crown height 1 m and the crown width are shoulder-length. The four corners of the crown often hang down to the shoulders, and the crown is decorated with gold, silver, pearls, colorful flowers, tortoiseshell combs and so on. When wearing this high crown, you should stick your head in the car door. A woman wearing a feather crown, a skirt and a tassel (a mural of Sanqing Hall in Yongle Palace, Shanxi Province) The flower bud in the Tang Dynasty was called "flower seed" when it spread to the Song Dynasty. This is a pattern stuck between the forehead and cheeks with gold wire or colored paper. Hanako's back is coated with gum produced in Liaoshui area, which can be pasted by mouth at will. In the Song Dynasty, women wearing crowns (part of "emperors of past dynasties" in Nanxun Hall) had a bun, which was popular among women in the Song Dynasty. Steamed buns have many names, including Long Rui Steamed Bun, Banana Steamed Bun, Chaotian Steamed Bun and Pan Da Steamed Bun. Girls usually tie a double-ring bun, comb their hair into a hollow ring and hang it over their ears. When dressing, people often put wigs on their hair, or directly put on fake buns, surround them with green flowers, tie colored ribbons and fix them with Hosta or silk screen. Porcelain figurines unearthed from the Song Tomb in Jingdezhen City, Jiangxi Province, with single combs and large combs, are decorated with pearls and jade. In the second year of Yuan You in the Northern Song Dynasty (A.D. 1087), the painted maid portrait skirt inherited the portrait skirt of the Tang Dynasty and became the main dress in women's daily life.

Due to the influence of national costumes, the skirt form in Song Dynasty can be left or right; A Yuhuan ornament is often hung on the ribbon in the middle of the skirt. Mdash& ampmdash; "Yuhuan Ribbon" is used to hold down the skirt, so that the skirt will not lose its elegance and solemnity when it flutters with the wind. Rural women in long skirts (Song people figure Meng Mu godson)? Song Dynasty women wearing long sleeves (Chongqing Dazu Song Dynasty stone carvings) decorated people's costumes. The social life in the Song Dynasty has been very rich. People with different identities, from bureaucrats, vendors, doctors, farmers, coachmen and monks to scholars, boatmen and artists & hellip& amphellip, have different clothes. Some wear robes, some wear suspenders; There are combs and towels; Some are neat and some are casual. Street view of working women in trousers (part of Wang Fang's picture), now in art institute of chicago, USA, and the three-inch golden lotus in art institute of chicago, USA refers to the little shoes worn by women after foot binding. Foot-binding gradually developed and prevailed in Song Dynasty, and the forms of three-inch golden lotus were gradually enriched. Foot-binding female armor (a part of Searching Tu Shan in Song Dynasty) The armor of Song Dynasty includes several parts, such as pocket, armor, shoulders and hanging legs. Its basic shape is inherited from the style of armor in the Tang Dynasty, with a slight change. After the Southern Song Dynasty, armor was gradually eliminated because of the development of gunpowder weapons. Armor Warrior (painted sculpture in Cave 55 of Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang) Armor Warrior (part of the map of Sangu Caolu in Song Dynasty) The pattern of armor in Song Dynasty (selected from the seal cutting Wu Beizhi in Ming Dynasty) was influenced by sketched flowers and birds, and the costume pattern in Song Dynasty was neat and realistic, which was quite different from the style in Tang Dynasty. Typical ones are: combined eight halos; Ruyi peony with flower theme; Lions and Tianma with animal themes; Geometric tortoise pattern, Fang Sheng, etc. The flower decoration "one-year scenery", which is mainly based on sketching flowers and combining flowers all year round, has the most far-reaching influence on future generations. Annual flower bands and double phoenix gold ornaments unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb in Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou; Twig-broken yarn and tea pattern in Ming Dynasty unearthed from Zhou Tomb of Southern Song Dynasty in De 'an, Jiangxi Province.