/kloc-traditional costumes of Shia in the 0/8th century

Under the background of religious culture, western ancient costumes have a theological orientation that transcends physiological needs.

/kloc-around 0/370, a kind of women's dress decorated with various kinds of leather was popular in the west, which was accused of "the gate of hell" because of its wide armholes and excessive skin exposure. 14 ~ 15 century popular Anne hat and double-horned high hat, called "the creation of the devil" by the church. Although these hats imitate Gothic church buildings, they must be discarded because their shapes are very similar to genitals. In this long and dark age, on the one hand, asceticism makes both men and women wear generous and conservative clothes that can closely cover their bodies. Christians generally wear dim homespun linen; Once upon a time, women wore shoulder-length masks or veils hanging from their heads to cover their whole bodies. On the other hand, under the banner of "glory belongs to the Lord", there are all kinds of exaggerated and gorgeous costumes.

Byzantine aristocrats wore a loose formal dress called dalmatica, which was made of brocade, decorated with gorgeous and complicated embroidery and decorated with colorful jewels or precious metals. During the Gothic period in Western Europe (12-15th century), aristocratic men wore cotardir embroidered with their family badges or knighthood. This is a colorful color separation suit. The colors of clothes, sleeves and pantyhose are often asymmetrical. For example, sometimes the left leg is red and the right leg is green. This kind of dress "can't help but remind people of the stained glass windows with strong color contrast and gorgeous style in the church."

The influence of Christian asceticism on western clothing. It is also reflected in the direct regulation of clothing modeling. The first is the clothing directly stipulated in the Bible. Like the New Testament? 1 Corinthians says that women must wear headscarves when they go to church. "Whoever prays or preaches with his head covered will humiliate his head", "A man should not cover his head because he is the image and glory of God" and "Whoever prays or preaches without his head covered will humiliate his head" because "women are made for men. Therefore, for the sake of angels, a woman should have an authoritative symbol on her head. " Secondly, it is the influence of Christian teachings on clothing styles. The ancient Greek "Jitong" mentioned above evolved into a sleeve-like garment called a tunic in ancient Rome. By the end of the Roman Empire, "Junica" had been further developed. Instead of making a very wide cloth into a tube and putting it on your body, it cuts a piece of cloth into a cross shape, makes a hole in the middle of the cross as the neckline, sews it under and on the side of the sleeve, and then decorates it with two purple stripes from shoulder to hem.

This cross-shaped pullover is deeply loved by Christians. The reason lies not only in its simplicity and practicality, but also in the fact that the cross is a symbol of Christian belief. This kind of dress is also called "Dalmatia" of bishop's vestment, and later became a special sacrificial dress of Christianity. Another example is a kind of women's burqa called "Surcot" popular in the Middle Ages, which tucks an extra-long skirt into a belt in front of the abdomen. "The front fold bulges the abdomen like a pregnant woman. It is said that this is a popular style caused by the worship of the virgin Mary. Because Mary was pregnant from the Holy Spirit before she got married and conceived Christ, her image when she was pregnant was also considered holy and beautiful. " 1 In addition, Christian regulations on various colors have also had an impact on clothing.

In addition, the influence of religious ideas on western ancient costumes is often indirectly realized through the influence of religious buildings.

For example, "Jitong" in ancient Greece was also divided into "Dolique style" and "Ionian style" like the pillars of the temple. The former has longitudinal grooves, while the latter has hypertrophy folds. The former is similar to Doric order, while the latter is similar to Ionian order. Gothic costumes like to deliberately lengthen the shape of the human body in order to pursue slim, straight and upward visual effects. Pointed leather shoes and tall hats are extremely exaggerated, which are in harmony with churches and bell towers that pierce the sky. After entering the Renaissance, "the long pointed shoes in the past no longer exist, and the shape of the shoes has been fundamentally changed. Toes become fat squares wider than heels, especially in Spain. There are also shoes that are thinner and narrower according to the foot shape, but the toe is round or square. " This is related to the popularity of the Dome Church in the Renaissance. In the era when baroque architecture prevailed, costumes became gorgeous and carved, and their tortuous lines were quite like the whirlpool decoration in the church.

As the extreme development of baroque art, Rococo-style clothing is more complicated. Women's dresses are decorated with layers of lace, ribbons and bows from the corset to the skirt, and the skirt is decorated with ribbons and flowers, just like decorations in the church.

From ancient Greece to the Middle Ages, clothing shaped the human body into a unified style. From ancient Greece, architecture praised the proportion of human body (such as setting the thickness of columns according to the proportion of human body), and clothing set off the natural beauty of human body; After the Middle Ages, clothing ignored the natural beauty of the human body, but took architecture as a model and insisted on transforming the natural body shape. Among them, the relationship between clothing and body has gone through a process from affirmation to negation. The essence of this process is to pursue a metaphysical religious idea that transcends the use function of clothing itself.

From14th century to the beginning of17th century, a magnificent Renaissance was launched in Europe. Italy is the origin and center of European Renaissance, and its handicraft industry, especially wool textile production, is very prosperous. The emergence and development of new productive forces and emerging capitalist relations of production have promoted the prosperity of social economy and urban life. On this economic basis, the new trend of thought of the Renaissance is active in all fields of society, preaching the value of life and the free liberation of human nature, advocating secular enjoyment and realistic happiness, and pursuing beautiful and luxurious wealth is becoming more and more prosperous. With the requirements of the times, Italian patterned velvet, with its elegant texture and high price, is regarded as a symbol of wealth and luxury, and is warmly favored by the society, especially the nobility and the rich, and has become the clothing of many important people. There are even many famous painters who participated in the design and popularization of velvet clothing, and their works have been confirmed on velvet clothing worn by many important people.

The symbolic value of clothing reached its peak during the Renaissance. A person's clothing can show his special social class and determine his position, role and rights in that class. For example, people can easily recognize members of the royal family from their clothes. Women's mopping dresses show their special significance through color and material. Clothing can also leave a deep impression on the audience when entering the palace corridor. The official court costumes of this period are of course the most luxurious part in the history of western culture.

Clothing is a way of dressing, which not only represents the different characteristics of a nation, an era and social fashion at that time, but also reflects the development and changes of human civilization. From the classical style emphasizing the beauty of nature to the changeable modernist clothing, each style of clothing can always bring more inspiration to future generations. In the development of western clothing, there is a kind of clothing pattern that has been affecting the design of modern clothing, that is, functional clothing.

Speaking of functionalism, we have to mention Bauhaus (19 19- 1933), the alma mater of modern design, which was founded by the architect walter gropius (1883- 1969). Bauhaus's theoretical principle is to abandon the traditional form of history and the additional decoration of products, advocate that the form should follow the function, respect the logic of the structure, emphasize the simplicity and pleasure of geometric modeling, make the products have a simple outline and a simple appearance, attach importance to mechanical technology, advocate standardization and consider commercial factors. These principles are called functionalist design theory, which requires the maximum use of products and advocates that the aesthetic characteristics of products should be in the form of technology, so as to be practical, economical and beautiful. The practice of functionalism design theory plays an important role in the theoretical construction of modern design.

Functionalism, though a theory originally expressed in architectural design, has already been reflected in the history of western clothing development. Although there was no clear theoretical guidance at that time, functional clothing coincided with functionalism in modern design, that is, it paid full attention to the comfort and convenience of the wearer. Since then, functionalism has been running through the whole process of western clothing development.

17th century knight dress

garments in Western style

/kloc-in the 0/7th century, wars were frequent in Europe. The Dutch war of national independence and the struggle between old and new sects in European countries lasted for half a century, which made most men go to war. Therefore, knight clothes became popular and became the daily clothes of men in this era. This knight's costume named justaucorpo is a soft pleated costume, made of velvet and satin, with exquisite lace collar and cuffs, and a big pleated hat with ostrich hair. Knight clothing is convenient and practical because it can meet the needs of people's activities. Men's clothing is often more modern than women's clothing.

/kloc-the emergence of functional women's wear in the 0 th and 9 th centuries

/kloc-there are two noteworthy changes in the clothing industry in the 0/9th century: the progress of industry and the development of cutting technology make the fabrics and styles of clothing more diversified. Special fabrics have been used since the end of 18, and the design is simple, trendy and bold, from which we can see the shadow of modern clothing. Technological progress provides material support for the development of functional clothing, and lifestyle change is the driving force for the development of functional clothing. In high society, it is a fashion for young women to participate in sports activities. Although women at that time always carried pills and covered their faces with handkerchiefs in order to emphasize the so-called upbringing, they were also keen on sports, riding horses in the morning and playing tennis or golf in the afternoon. Followed by the emergence of light and practical clothing styles to adapt to various sports activities, such as travel coats, riding clothes, hunting clothes, yacht clothes and so on.

garments in Western style

Wait a minute. 65438+In 1930s, women began to ride like men, and cycling clothes began to appear. The lady wore tight breeches and cotton boots, a hat and deerskin gloves, and a long skirt. With the change of social atmosphere, women's status has been improved, and feminists have also started activities. They advocate that women should wear pants like men. Mrs. Jencks brummer, the pioneer of American feminist movement, introduced the loose bloomers of Oriental Arabia into women's wear for the first time and made a bold attempt. Although she was criticized in America, she was recognized in Britain. 1887, viscount Smith of England put on bloomers, and a beer hall in London also put on bloomers. The appearance of trousers, jackets and shorts became a bold innovation at that time, which further reflected women's freedom from bondage and pursuit of function.

The Development of Functional Clothing in the 20th Century

In the 20th century, with the development of economy and the progress of science and technology, great changes have taken place in people's lifestyles. With the change of lifestyle, functional clothing has been further developed.

Women's Wear in the 1920s: Functionalization and Masculinity of Women's Wear

The outbreak of the First World War has brought about new changes in people's lifestyles and attitudes towards life. Women directly participated in production and war, gained economic freedom and democratic rights, and played an important role in social life. Clothing in the 1920s adapted to all aspects of new life. Women's life is more free. Besides work, they are also keen on sports and dancing, so the functionalization of clothing has become the primary factor in design. Abandoned the traditional corset, shortened the coat and began to use the belt to make women more comfortable and casual in life. This is a direct impact on traditional clothing, and the concept, form, cutting, production and fabric of clothing are very different from those of the previous 10 year.

garments in Western style

Meanwhile, due to the improvement of women's social status, young women actively advocate gender equality. In order to resist the patriarchal society, women wear pants all day. The comfort and convenience of trousers make trousers popular all the time, and women's trousers become a formal part of clothing for the first time. Paul. Women's trousers for formal occasions designed by paul poiret (1879- 1944) have a more lasting influence on fashion design. French female designer Coco? Coco chanel (1883- 197 1) suggested that men's appreciation of women's sexiness should not be the center of women's clothing design. She directly applied the clothing materials of men's clothing to women's clothing, which made a beneficial exploration for the functionalization and masculinity of women's clothing. And designed and produced their own sportswear, evolved from the basic structure of loose underwear, loose and simple, using soft cotton fabrics. In fact, this loose fashion design method was originally used as women's underwear, and Chanel turned it into a coat, which is a major breakthrough.

This period is called the "girl-boy" period in fashion history, and the skirt has been rising from the ankle to the knee, becoming a veritable short skirt. 1922 The novel "Girls and Boys" describes the image of girls at that time-cutting short hair, wearing men's clothes and dieting to lose weight, which is a portrayal of this period.

Military uniforms and cowboy trends in the 1940s.

The second world war made people have no time to care about clothes for a period of time, but it promoted the consideration of practicality. Many women put on military uniforms and made women's clothes more practical. Two British designers who succeeded in Paris returned to Britain during the war to design uniforms for female officers and men in the British army. Under the background of war, military uniforms have become fashionable, and skirts are short and tight. These tight-fitting, serious and disciplined wartime uniforms are not only eligible.

garments in Western style

It is expensive to wear and use, and the people are also eager. Jeans became popular during this period because they are durable and wear-resistant. At first, they were just work clothes, and later they developed into durable everyday clothes. Military uniforms and cowboys become the representatives of functional clothing.

Functionalism, Pragmatism and Minimalism after 1950s.

After World War II, with the process of globalization and the change of people's lifestyle, functional clothing has achieved unprecedented development. At that time, people attached great importance to the function of products, so the slogan "Only function is beautiful" came into being. Although it sounds a bit biased, it shows that people have clearly injected functionality into their aesthetic concepts. During this period, the fashion design master Yves? Saint? Laurent explores the new possibilities of women's clothing from all aspects, and thinks that new clothing must be comfortable and functional. In the 1960s, he designed a series of functional dresses, including trousers, jackets with British style during his African expedition, and women's trousers dresses, among which the most revolutionary one was women's trousers dresses inspired by tuxedo suits, which all reflected his exploration of the functionality and comfort of new clothes in this era. After 90' s, people's perspective changed from paying attention to material to paying attention to themselves, and paying attention to the practicality and comfort of clothing became a new trend. Brightly colored jackets, jumpsuits and pullovers have become popular and popular clothes.

With the advent of the digital age and the acceleration of the pace of life, paying attention to comfort and functionality has become the primary factor in fashion design. The era of "function follows shape" has become a thing of the past. Nowadays, under the "people-oriented" design concept, functional clothing has always followed a diversified social life, and clothing has become increasingly refined according to its different functions. In recent years, functional clothing represented by tooling and military uniform has been a popular hot spot. It is not difficult to see that people's desire for freedom, self-affirmation and self-recognition further promote the popularity of functional clothing.