Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - What about the tassel hanging from the flag of the Qing court?

What about the tassel hanging from the flag of the Qing court?

Ordinary maids have no tassels on their heads, while higher maids, such as female officials, wear tassels. Maids-in-waiting usually dress according to grades, and bring different styles of tassels according to the people they want to see. If the other person's grade is higher than his own, his own dress can't steal the other person's thunder. If there is an emperor present, then achievements will not be emphasized. Prince Fujin and his wife dress according to their rank. The main room is generally fringed on both sides, and the side room is generally unilateral.

Tassel is a favorite jewelry of Manchu women, and its shape is similar to hairpin. But there are several rows of beads hanging on the top of the hairpin, which move with people and keep swaying, much like walking in the eight categories of ancient jewelry. Bead-walking jewelry was first seen in the Han Dynasty, and at first it was only popular with court and aristocratic women in the Han Dynasty. What is shaking step? "Those who step and shake, with gold beads and jade, hang on the hairpin and step and shake it." Buyao belongs to the ritual jewelry of Han Dynasty, and its shape and texture are symbols of rank and status. After the Han Dynasty, Buyao was gradually seen by the people, and only then did it have the opportunity to spread widely in society. Among aristocratic women, there was also a time when a rocking crown was added to the crown. Wearing it on your head is more luxurious than walking.

In the "China Cultural Relics Exhibition" held in the Forbidden City, several gold tree walking crowns unearthed in Liaoning Province were exhibited. The golden tree is a crown umbrella, and each branch has more than 40 branches and twigs. There is one or two movable gold rings at the top of each twig, and each gold ring is tied with a gold leaf, which is extremely beautiful when touched lightly. Its excavation makes us feel the intelligence and superb creativity of our ancestors, and at the same time, we can learn about the luxury of the life of feudal emperors' concubines. In history, after the Tang and Song Dynasties, many changes have taken place in the shape of stepping stones. Besides gold, there are stepping stones made of precious materials such as jade, coral, glass, amber, turquoise and spar. Tang Yin, one of the four famous painters in the Ming Dynasty, wrote in the poem "Song of Recruiting the Sages": "Yujin steps to shake the silver finger, and the moon hangs on the dragon chair". It can be seen that "Yujin" was used in the Ming Dynasty, and it may be a stepping shape with metal and jewels. Among them, there are many new welding technologies popular in Ming Dynasty. In fact, the durability of gold wire welded with gold base and inlaid with pearls and gems is much higher than that of traditional crafts such as carving and stewing.

In Qing dynasty, the new welding technology was mostly adopted in step swing. In the Catalogue of Clothing Exhibition in Qing Dynasty compiled by the Palace Museum in Taiwan, there is a "phoenix jade bead", which is lined with metal welding, decorated with kingfisher feathers, with rubies and snow-white rice beads embedded in the eyes and red coral beads embedded on both sides. Phoenix is sideways, with two strings of small pearls more than ten centimeters long in its sharp mouth and a small green gourd in its corner. The whole walking posture is light and unique, and its materials are excellent, which is really rare.

In another catalog, there is also a tassel, which is more auspicious and similar in shape. At the top of the tassel connected with the pin, there is a golden halberd (an ancient combat weapon) with golden silk thread. There is a gold pendant on the halberd, and a string of beads is hung at each end of the pendant. One string is a pearl lapis lazuli bat with an emerald cover and a ruby pendant. Another string is pearl honey fish, emerald cover and ruby pendant. The whole tassel consists of halberd, stone, bat and fish. The homophonic tassel "More than auspicious celebration" is auspicious and has a unique shape. It not only plays the role of decorating hair style, but also combines sense of humor, symbolism and homophonic. It's a masterpiece of tassel jewelry.

The original meaning of the word tassel refers to the colorful silk tassels used by ancient people to decorate chariots and horses. However, the step and the tassel are exactly the same in shape and function. As for why the name Buyao was not inherited, it was replaced by the word tassel, which needs further study in the future.

Manchu women like a variety of tassels. There are rockhopper, rockhopper, flower, butterfly, mandarin duck, bat and so on. There are one layer, two layers and three layers of hanging beads. Among the jewelry of empresses in the Qing Dynasty exhibited in the Treasure Hall of the Forbidden City in Beijing, there is a word "wearing a tassel" that the queen wore at the emperor's wedding. At the top of the tassel is a feathered bat with two small gold rings in its mouth, which are connected with the feather head of a flowing cloud. Ruyi's head is parallel to three long strings of pearls, each string of pearls is divided into three layers on average, and the word "double happiness" carved by red coral is separated between each layer. The bottom of the bead string is made of ruby. The whole tassel is 28 cm long from the top to the corner, which is the longer one of the tassels. This kind of long tassel is usually inserted obliquely at the top of the bun, and the beads hang down just shoulder-level. In addition, the tassels collected in the Qing Palace are the most common, with phoenix-shaped beads at the top. Such as "Dragon and Phoenix Becoming Auspicious", "Cai Feng Qi Fei", "Feng Dan facing the sun" and "Phoenix wearing peony". Phoenix is the king of birds. It is said that it can bring happiness, beauty and light to people. The image of a phoenix holding a pearl means that the phoenix is nesting and preparing to brood. Emperors in feudal times wanted to have many children and grandchildren, so many queens' headdresses were crowned with the title of Phoenix.