What are the origins and characteristics of costumes in past dynasties?

The system of chapter and clothing in slave society was gradually developed and perfected centering on the coronation of the "son of heaven". According to the classic records, Xia and Shang Dynasties had crown clothes, while Zhou Dynasty's crown clothes changed and developed under Xia and Shang Dynasties' system, which influenced the system of chapter clothes in later generations.

The clothes in Shang and Zhou dynasties were mainly the "clothes" on the top, and the collar opened to the right; Wear a "petticoat" below, and a petticoat is a skirt; A wide-brimmed belt is tied around the waist, and a skirt hairpin is added in front of the abdomen to cover the knees, so it is also called "covering the knees".

After the establishment of the Qin Dynasty in 22 1 BC, in order to consolidate the unity, various systems were established, including the clothing system. In the Zhou Dynasty, Qin Shihuang wore a crown instead of six crowns, but only the "Xuanyi" crown, crown, law crown and Wu crown, and wore robes and belts.

(Features) Qin Dynasty (22 1-206 BC) In 22 1 year BC, Qin destroyed six countries, and Qin Shihuang took power and established the first unified country in China history. Qin Shihuang unified writing, currency, weights and measures, etc. It had a far-reaching influence on the national strength of China and the formation and continuation of the Han nationality. Due to the discovery of the Terracotta Warriors and Horses in the Mausoleum of the First Qin Dynasty, there are abundant historical materials for the study of dress customs in the Qin Dynasty.

Men's clothing Qin Shihuang stipulated that the big dress was black from top to bottom, and the color of the dress was black. Because Qin Shihuang was very superstitious about the theory of yin and yang and five elements, he believed that the water of Qin extinguished the fire of Zhou Dynasty. And black is the main water, while solid is still black), it is stipulated that officials above the third grade should wear green robes, and Shu Ren should wear white robes.

Hanfu, also known as Hanfu, is a traditional costume of the Han nationality in China, also known as Hanfu and Huafu. During the 4,000 years from the accession of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty (AD1mid-7th century), the etiquette and costume system remained unchanged for thousands of years, centering on Chinese etiquette culture and going through the Han Dynasty. Since Huangdi and Yao Shun ruled the world by hanging down their clothes, Hanfu has taken a basic shape. After the inheritance of etiquette and law in the Zhou Dynasty, a perfect costume system was formed, which was popularized to the people in the Han Dynasty and influenced the whole Chinese cultural circle through Confucianism and Chinese legal system. The customs of Han people, Hanfu people, China people and China are all named after this. Japan, North Korea and Viet Nam have all enacted laws imitating China's clothing system.

Featuring cross collar, right slit and lace.

Wei, Jin, southern and northern dynasties

Wei and Jin costumes basically inherited the old system of Qin and Han dynasties. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, there was a trend of mutual absorption and gradual integration among ethnic groups. Han men began to wear tight-fitting narrow-sleeved tops, leisurely belts, Hu clothes with pants and boots; The clothing style of Han women has also changed from a compliment belt with a long top and a short bottom to a tight, frugal top and rich bottom. The shape of deep clothes gradually disappeared among the people, and Hu clothes were widely popular in the Central Plains.

Men's wear-shirt: there are two styles: single and clip, which are different from the robes of Qin and Han dynasties. Free from clothes, with wide cuffs, it is popular from princes and nobles to ordinary people.

Women's clothing-double-breasted, long skirt: Wei and Jin Dynasties generally followed the old customs of Qin and Han Dynasties, including shirts, pants, baskets, skirts and other shapes, and gradually changed after the Southern and Northern Dynasties. The clothes worn by early women were mostly double-breasted, with wide sleeves and cuffs decorated with sleeves of different colors. There are many styles of long skirts, such as shading skirts, weft skirts and double-layer skirts with single yarn patterns. There are ribbons wrapped around the waist, and some still wrap a skirt around the waist to tie it.

Clothing in the Tang Dynasty entered the Tang Dynasty from the Sui Dynasty (6 18-907), and ancient Chinese clothing reached its peak. Political stability, economic development, progress in production and textile technology, and frequent foreign exchanges have promoted the unprecedented prosperity of clothing, as well as the styles, colors and patterns of clothing. Present an unprecedented new situation. Women's wear in this period is the most wonderful chapter in China's clothing, and its crown is magnificent. The costume image of the Tang Dynasty for more than 200 years can be mainly divided into three kinds of matching costumes: shirts and skirts, round neck robes and Hu clothes.

Song dynasty

In the early Song Dynasty, the imperial court stipulated the service system of emperors, crown princes, kings and officials at all levels with reference to the previous generation. Compared with the costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Song Dynasty are not only less innovative in style, but also monotonous in color and tend to be simple, clean and natural.

Men's clothing-official clothing: The clothing of the Emperor in Song Dynasty is based on the Tang costume, including a big hair crown, a dragon crown, a crimson gauze robe, a walking robe, a single coat and a narrow robe. This is a kind of clothing that advocates enjoyment, attends meetings, cultivates self-cultivation, guards the home and protects the home, and lives in seclusion.

Civilian costumes: the costumes of the people in the northern song dynasty: all those who sell medicine and divination have crowns, and scholars, farmers and businessmen have their own qualities. Some wear hat backs, some wear shirt horns, and some don't wear hats. Different industries wear different clothes. In Song Dynasty, men mainly wore round neck robes and skirts.

In the Song Dynasty, many literati wore knee-length jackets, Huang Shang, square-toed shoes and a big belt as concierge.

the Ming Dynasty

Zhu Yuanzhang carried out his idea of "restoring the dignity of Han officials" and issued a decree prohibiting braided hair, vertebral bun, Hu Mao, men's trousers, narrow sleeves and braided waist pleats, women's narrow sleeves and skirts left over from Yuan Dynasty. Referring to the Zhou and Han Dynasties and the Tang and Song Dynasties, the clothing system was adjusted on a large scale. This suit system has been used for more than 20 years until the 26th year of Hongwu (AD 1393). Yongle and Jiajing made some changes to make the regulations more specific. The tonic that began in the Ming Dynasty is not only a symbol of identity, but also embodies superb weaving and embroidery techniques.

Men's wear-official clothing: the official clothing of Ming Dynasty was restored to Tang Dynasty, but the grade difference was more obvious than that of Tang Dynasty. This is related to Zhu Yuanzhang's acceptance of Confucianism after he took power. The coronation dress is only worn by emperors, crown princes, princes and other members of the royal family at ceremonies such as sacrifices or court meetings.

Women's clothing-the crown clothing of celebrities in Ming Dynasty can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. The queen's dresses are used in books, temples and ceremonies. Besides rockhopper, the Queen often wears Zhen Hong's long sleeves, robes, long red dresses and red coats. During the Yongle period, clothes were changed into yellow coats, dark blue robes and jade ornaments. Another coat, bow dress, skirt, etc. , color, material, pattern, etc. In the Ming Dynasty, grandmothers, mothers and wives who were knighted also had strict rules on clothes. Its dress is used to greet the queen and attend ceremonies such as sacrifices. There are mainly rockhopper, lower iron, big sleeve shirt and Xunzi.

Ching Dynasty

Judging from the development history of costumes, the Qing Dynasty made the biggest changes to traditional costumes, and the styles of costumes were also the most complicated. In the second year of Qing Shunzhi (AD 1645), a haircut order was issued. From then on, men changed their hair bundles into hair cuts and pendants, and changed the big-sleeved socks that took off their shirts in the Ming Dynasty into small-sleeved arrow clothes and tight socks. Traditional vestments have finally been eliminated. However, we can still see the reservation of some aspects of the previous costumes from the costumes of the Qing Dynasty, such as the twelve chapters of the dragon robe and the court clothes. A supplement to formal clothing; The difference between pearls, corals, precious stones and gold and silver used in official hat tops; And the number grading system of maids' crowns of Jinfeng and Jinzhai. From the fourth year of Tongzhi in the late Qing Dynasty (A.D. 1865) to Guangxu, students were sent abroad to study many times. Overseas students go abroad, cut their braids and start wearing suits. Later, the Qing government opened schools to train new troops and adopted western-style military uniforms and uniforms. The costumes of students and the army have also changed.

Men's clothing-official clothing: official clothing in the Qing Dynasty, from the emperor to the civil and military officials, as well as Jinshi and Juren. , are taken according to the results. Clothing includes robes, royal robes, dragon robes, uniforms, robes, end caps, robes, supplementary clothes, curtains and so on.

Manchu women's dresses-There are two kinds of women's dresses in Qing Dynasty: Manchu and Han. Manchu women generally wear robes or vests; Han women still wear clothes and skirts, and so did after the mid-Qing Dynasty. Manchu women's robes have flat cuffs and are long enough to cover their feet. Noble women use dragons and pythons, but generally use silk embroidery patterns. Sleeves, skirts, ruffles, etc. Are inlaid with various colors of lace. The collar is low and gradually rises. The robe is very wide at the beginning and gradually narrows at the back. A short or waist-length vest is often worn outside, including a pair of lapels, straight lapels and pipa lapels. This robe later evolved into the main costume of Han women-cheongsam.