Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - The Significance of Japanese Women's Wear
The Significance of Japanese Women's Wear
Open classification: Japan, Han nationality, Japanese culture, Hanfu, Tang suit.
Directory? Interpretation of kimono
Characteristics of kimono
Definition of kimono
The structure of kimono
The history of kimono
Kimono art
Types of kimonos
How to wear kimono
Taboo of kimono
Taboo of kimono
Kimono (わふく, wafuku) originally meant "the general name of clothing" in Japanese, and later referred to its traditional clothing. The word originated after the Meiji Restoration in Japan, and was originally called Five Blessingg, because the Japanese were a harmonious family. The antonym of this word is dress.
Now going to Japan is still more called Five Blessingg.
Interpretation of kimono
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Kimono is divided into men's wear, women's wear, children's wear, single coat and double coat, as well as "wearing" (outer robe) and "wearing" (inner robe) and so on. Kimono is usually ankle-long, with a cross collar, a right shoulder, wide sleeves, eight legs, no buttons, and a belt with a family emblem printed on it.
きもの: In European languages such as English, kimono is called kimono, which is a thing in Japanese. Sticking refers to all clothes in a broad sense and kimono and traditional Japanese clothes in a narrow sense.
Kimono (わふく):) is a traditional Japanese costume, which is now worn on formal occasions. Dresses are required for New Year celebrations, adult ceremonies and Japanese weddings. As far as I know, China people's misunderstanding of kimono is basically known as swimsuit. ) Because it is bulky to wear, it is condemned as an unrealistic clothing style, but its advantage is to give the wearer elegant demeanor.
Five Blessingg: The meaning of cloth. China's textile technology and sewing methods of Wu in the ancient Three Kingdoms period spread to the Japanese commemorative words of later generations. Usually, military clothes refer to high-grade kimonos made of silk, while kimonos made of cotton are called (ふともの).
Characteristics of kimono
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Kimono belongs to plane cutting, almost all of which are composed of straight lines, which means that the beauty of kimono is created by straight lines. Kimono has almost no curve, but the collar has a 20 cm cut, and the extra parts are stacked together when wearing the collar. If the kimono is disassembled, people can see that the cloth used to make the kimono is still a complete rectangle. Because the cutting and making of kimono have the above characteristics, it is more free in cutting. When making kimono, people seldom have the influence of receptor type. People of different sizes, even wearing kimonos of the same size, rarely give people the impression that their clothes don't fit. Because it can vary from person to person, adjust the waist size. Although kimono is basically composed of straight lines and inserted into the body in a straight tube shape, it lacks the display of human body curves, but it can show solemnity, stability and tranquility, which conforms to the Japanese temperament. Not only that, kimono also conforms to the nature of Japan; Most parts of Japan are warm and humid, so ventilation of clothes is very important. Because the kimono is loose, there are as many as eight air holes in the clothes, and the sleeves, lapels and welts of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, which is very suitable for the local climate in Japan.
Definition of kimono
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There are many kinds of kimonos, regardless of color, texture and style, which have undergone thousands of years of changes. Not only are there obvious differences between men and women (men's kimonos are monotonous in color, black, with few styles, thin belts, simple accessories and convenient to wear; Women's kimonos have rich colors, wide belts, various types and styles, and many accessories), and according to different occasions and times, people will wear different kimonos to show caution (women's kimonos include wedding kimonos, adult kimonos, evening ceremony kimonos, banquet ceremony kimonos and general dresses). The weaving, dyeing and embroidery of kimono itself, as well as the complicated rules when wearing it (pay attention to wearing clogs and cloth socks when wearing kimono, and comb different hairstyles according to the types of kimono) make it look like a work of art. Designers constantly innovate in color and texture, and apply various bold designs to colors, so that modern impressions can be skillfully integrated into classical forms.
Before the edo period, the word "bath" of kimono meant "hot water", and people called kimono "bathrobe" at that time. Curtains refer to single clothes, that is, clothes worn alone. The ancient bathrooms were basically steam-type, which is very similar to the sauna now. In order to avoid being scalded by walls and columns, people wear soup curtains to take a bath. Tang Weizi, known as "kimono", began in the Edo period.
Later, people gradually changed the form of bathing. When taking a bath, they no longer wear clothes, but soak in hot water. As a result, this kind of kimono has become a simple dress to wear after bathing, and continues to this day as a dress that reflects personal interest in summer leisure. From the price point of view, it is very different from the kimono that actually attends the banquet, which is generally around 6.5438+million yen, while the average kimono is at least 6.5438+0000.
The first Japanese clothes were women's clothes called "all-in-one clothes" and men's clothes called "banners". The so-called "Toutouyi" is to dig a hole in the cloth, cover it from the head, then tie the cloth hanging under the armpit with a belt, and then match it with a skirt-like bottoms. Its practice is quite primitive, but it is quite practical.
The so-called "flag" is to wrap uncut cloth around your body and show your right shoulder, just like a monk's cassock.
On this basis, Japanese kimono gradually evolved. Various images of kimonos have appeared on Japanese doll wheels, from Gong Yuan to ancient tombs in the 7th century.
In the 8th century, China's Tang Dynasty clothing was introduced to Japan, which had a great influence on Japanese kimono. The names of kimonos at that time, such as "Tang Cao", "Tang Hua" and "Jintang". "Toutuoyi", "Banner" and later "Kimono" were all influenced by China's Tang Dynasty costumes in Southeast Asia.
There are "similarities" and "differences" in the styles and ways of wearing various kimonos. It is these "differences" that make clothing have an important function: to show identity, age and social class. Take the women's kimono as an example, this "small difference" is mainly manifested in the sleeves. Kimono sleeves can be roughly divided into "black sleeves", "colored sleeves", "local sleeves" and "medium sleeves", and so on.
1. "Keep sleeves", that is, the sleeves are relatively short.
2. "Black Sleeves" kimonos are often decorated with exquisite patterns. This is a kind of clothing for middle-aged women, which is usually worn in more grand and solemn occasions, such as weddings and banquets.
3. "color sleeves" are kimonos of various colors. People who wear clothes are younger than those who wear "black sleeves", and they also wear dresses on grand occasions.
4. "Vibrating sleeves" is a traditional costume of unmarried young women in Japan, which is luxurious and usually only worn at celebrations, graduation and New Year (even now, few people wear this kimono). "Vibrating sleeves" are long sleeves, often as long as 1 m and hanging down to the ankles.
In addition, there is a kind of kimono called "color without land", which is usually worn. There is no pattern in Color Without Land, but there is color.
Breathability is a great advantage and feature of kimono, so the cuffs, skirts and pleats of kimono can be opened and closed freely. But this kind of opening and closing, especially the opening and closing of the skirt, has a lot to pay attention to. Different opening and closing have different meanings, showing different identities of the wearer. For example, when an artist wears a kimono, the skirt is always open, and only the V-shaped intersection of the skirt is tied with a belt. This way of dressing not only gives people a sense of kimono, but also shows an implicit beauty, which can better show the identity of women engaged in this profession. On the other hand, if women who are not engaged in this profession wear kimonos, they must accept skirts. However, even if the skirt is closed, the degree is exquisite, which shows the marital status of the wearer: if it is a married woman, the skirt does not have to be completely closed, and it can be opened near the neck. But if you are an unmarried girl, you must fold all your skirts. In fact, kimono has so many exquisiteness that there are "classrooms" in Japan that teach people how to wear kimono.
The structure of kimono
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1. Hang (), * * * ゛ (
2. Ben (ほんぇり) and Di (じぇり)
3. Right front (まぇみご)
4. Left front cover
5. Sleeves (そで)
6. Mei ()
7. Left hand (left hand)
8. Right hand
9. First (けんさき)
10. Height (みたけ)
1 1. Zhang ()
12. Shoulder width (かたはば)
13. Sleeve width (そではば)
14. Sleeve husband (そでたけ)
15. Cuff (そでぐち)
16. Sleeve salary (そでつけ)
The history of kimono
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According to legend, in the Shinto era in Japan, there was a fairy who ordered food according to evil. He often takes off his coat, shirt and belt and exposes his body when holding exorcism ceremonies (seeking happiness in the early days of disasters by fasting and bathing). According to later research, the legendary Shinto era is equivalent to Japan's primitive social period. At that time, there were thousands of Japanese living sites discovered, and their distribution areas ranged from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. In primitive society, the Japanese lived an uncertain social life, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don't always think about the imperial era). Perhaps it was at that time that the Japanese began to use animal fur or leaves to keep out the cold and walked out of the nude age. In the late rope culture era (Neolithic Age in Japan, equivalent to 800- 500 years ago) and Yayoi culture era (the era when Yayoi pottery was used in Japan, equivalent to 300-300 years ago), two basic clothing styles appeared in Japan. One is a pullover T-shirt, which is similar in shape to today's T-shirts; The other is double-breasted type, with left-breasted placket, collar tip reaching waist, and tied with string at equal intervals. Sleeves are cylindrical sleeves, and the length is above the knee. There is also a coat, a scarf and a beard. Autumn originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn under the body and hidden under the coat. Autumn here refers to the joint of trouser legs similar to shorts. Men have something around their waists called petticoats, which are tied around their coats. Some changes have taken place in the clothes because of the pleats in the knot. Most women wear skirts. Different from men, women's skirts reach the ground, which is quite similar to today's Korean women's skirts "Ma Qi".
Scarves are usually hung on the shoulders as decoration, and the form of hanging is not limited, which is generally determined by personal hobbies. Scarves are often used as long-sleeved belts or as a substitute for wrapping cloth in production and labor. When leaving, people waved scarves to show their reluctance, which is the same as waving handkerchiefs to show goodbye in Meiji era. Yushubi is a kind of belt fabric that is bigger and longer than a scarf. It is put on the head and hung on the waist. Ancient Japanese women were taboo to be seen by men, so they were used to cover their faces.
According to Historical Records, Records of Japan, Atlas of Planting Wheels, Addendum to Ancient Characters and other documents, the clothing in the late rope culture era and the Yayoi culture era in Japan has been made of plant fiber materials such as bamboo cloth, linen cloth, cotton coarse cloth, rattan cloth and cob cloth. The belt is made of Japanese cloth. The appearance of cloth hangs over the aura of myth, such as carving gods to cut cloth and white gods to make people happy.
Dyeing was quite common at that time. According to Shen Yingji, at the time of Emperor Jingxing, the common people already knew that madder was used to dye red, indigo was used to dye blue, green bristlegrass was used to dye yellow, acorns were used to dye black, and purple roots were used to dye purple. Most dyed fabrics have no lines, and occasionally there are some printed lines, which are usually printed directly with leaves and flowers. The plants used are evening primrose, swallow grass, hazelnut, indigo, honeysuckle and so on.
1. Nara era: The coarse clothes and narrow-sleeved oblique skirts in ancient Japan are very similar to those worn in ancient China. However, it is really recorded in writing that Chinese clothes were introduced into Japan and institutionalized, which should have started from the Nara era. The Japanese Nara era coincided with the prosperous Tang Dynasty in China. Japanese sent a large number of scholars and monks to study in China. These envoys brought the culture, art and laws of the Tang Dynasty back to Japan-"Dressing Order" was one of the systems formulated in the Nara era after imitating the Tang Dynasty. The Dress Order stipulates dresses, court clothes and uniforms-court clothes include crowns and hats, which are distinguished according to official ranks; Uniforms are the clothes of civil servants without official positions, which are classified by industry. Generally speaking, the color of clothing in Nara era is relatively simple. Heian period: During Heian period (after the ninth century), due to the prevalence of national customs, Japanese kimono gradually got rid of foreign influences and developed its unique luxury and exquisite characteristics. Its clothes began to diversify in color, and its sleeves also developed in a wide direction. For example, people familiar with Japanese history must have heard of Tang Yi and Twelve Commandments. Tang suit is a kind of clothing, with purple as the most expensive and resplendent. Twelve orders are actually a way to wear. She is not wearing a twelve-layer single coat, but a twelve-layer dress called Gui is folded on the single coat. The Gui is light and transparent. When the Gui is layered, you can still vaguely see the color of a single dress or watch, adding a hazy aesthetic feeling. From here, we can also get a glimpse of Japanese aesthetics, which not only likes abstract beauty, but also likes to truly and meticulously reflect the beauty of the natural world.
2. Kamakura era: Due to excessive corruption and extravagant desires, the official rule eventually declined. During the Kamakura period, there was a relatively lean and simple Wu culture, and the characteristics of this era were also reflected in clothing. At that time, the Yuan Dynasty unified China and invaded Japan ten times in a row: in order to facilitate the war, the Japanese restored their clothes to simplicity and changed their wide sleeves into narrow ones.
3. Muromachi era: In Muromachi era, family lines were printed on clothes (in ancient Japan, every family had family lines according to their surnames, and it was estimated that there were more than 20,000 family lines), and the design of casual clothes began to be formalized. Zhichuan and Shi Boshi are fashionable men's wear and are very popular. And women's clothing is also developing towards simplicity.
4. Taoshan era: In the period of An Tian and Taoshan in Zhiyan, Xinyang (1mid-6th century), people began to pay attention to wearing different clothes in different places, so there appeared "visiting clothes" for wedding banquets and tea parties, as well as "sleeve clothes" for various celebrations, adult festivals, banquets and blind dates. Small sleeve is popular with women: although it looks good, it is still relatively simple compared with Tang suits and the like. During this period, "Nenglie" with distinctive folk characteristics gradually took shape, and exquisite and luxurious "Nenglie" costumes appeared. At this time, the official costumes did not change much, and they were basically the continuation of the palace costumes in Heian period, while the final integration of official martial artists was in Meiji period, which is another story.
5. Edo era: Edo era is the most prosperous period in the history of Japanese clothing. At that time, although men's and women's clothing changed, (for example, the small sleeve style of women's clothing became close to modern times, while the feather-knitted tie knot of men's clothing became popular. However, the basic pattern has been set. In the Meiji era, the kimono in the present sense was finalized, and it hasn't changed much since. Most of the kimonos we see now follow the special clothing style of the Edo era.
Kimono art
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The history of Japanese painting has always kept pace with the history of China art, especially in the Tang Dynasty in China, Buddhist art spread to China and Japan, and both of them have similarities in mural statues in temples and portraits in life.
The paintings that truly reflect Japanese kimono are mainly Japanese genre paintings. Japanese genre painting rose in the Murakami era (1392- 1573), which was equivalent to the Ming Dynasty in China. At that time, many genre paintings of China were introduced to Japan, such as the farming and weaving pictures reflecting the production process of working people in ancient China, which were imitated by Japanese painters, so that many versions of farming and weaving pictures appeared in Japan, including the painted screen weaving pictures of Nagano Nagano and Koyasan of Wakayama Prefecture. However, the real rise of Japanese genre painting was in the Edo period. At that time, although there were schools of classical painting that specialized in telling traditional stories, such as Tale of Genji and Tale of Pure Glass, they all appeared on the royal screen at that time, and this traditional theme was generally expressed by traditional painting techniques. The characters in the painting are all dressed in gorgeous clothes in the palace at that time, and their modeling style is somewhat similar to that of a working young man. But at that time, more genre paintings were painted on these screens at the same time, which was a major feature of the early Edo period (1early 6th century). Its painting center is in Kyoto. At that time, after the uprising of Ren Guang civilization, Kyoto's economy was recovering. As a symbol of recovery, Mingguang Nine-year Garden Fair is also held once a year in Kyoto. Because of this, a series of screen paintings appeared in large numbers, such as Nagano Yongde's Luo Zhong. Gazing at Tian Ben, Li Bo Yi Ben, going to Saiya skirt, as well as the Luo Zhong custom map (65438+the first half of the 7th century) hidden in Tokyo National Museum and the screen of the four rivers original tour map in Jingjiatang Library. The themes of these screens are quite similar to You Chuntu in the Tang Dynasty, but there are more characters and more grand scenes, among which kabuki is the most prominent. Like four rivers and six willows. The former is the center of the rise of kabuki, and the latter is the place where kabuki female tourists gather. Founded in the eighth year of Changqing (1603), Kitano Shetou Kabuki became famous overnight. At the end of the reign of Evergreen, he performed for the girls in Liuliumachi on the permanent stage of Siheyuan. At that time, this custom was recorded in a large number of words, and the local area became the cultural center of Kyoto. We can see the wearing condition of kimono at that time.
However, the grand occasion of kabuki was repelled by politicians. In Kuanyong 16, kabuki was banned by the government, so the indoor amusement maps increased greatly during Kuanyong's reign.
By the middle of Edo, genre painting was equivalent to Ukiyo-e painting in Taoshan period. Ukiyo-e draws a single beauty from the indoor amusement map to describe it. This form was particularly popular in the liberal arts era, so it was called the liberal arts beauty picture, among which the picture of eight thousand generations of doctors was a particularly excellent work.
/kloc-in the middle of the 0/7th century, printed illustrations appeared in Edo's publications. Most of the artists who draw these illustrations are unknown painters, among which Hishikawa Moronobu (-1694) is the most prominent. Xuanshi used to be an illustrator of Edo edition of the former Xihe's "lascivious generation", and each illustration can be appreciated independently. Xuan Shi is the founder of a painting. The beauty in his Meet the Beauty is wearing a kimono embroidered with large red flowers. When the beauty looks back, she smiles and is very touching.
In the next two years (1765), folk paintings became popular. It is made of luxurious multi-color folding prints, among which the outstanding author is Suzuki Harunobu (1725- 1770). Its prints are like the beauty of brocade, so it is called brocade painting. The beauty of its paintings, especially the waist, is all the rage. The representative figure of beauty paintings after the Spring Heart is Shengchuan, Zhang Chunhe and torii, Changqing, but the most famous ukiyo-e painting is Beichuan Gewu (1753- 1806), and his paintings are mostly half-length paintings or big paintings, such as "Ten-body Women Learn from Each other". Since then, many genre paintings reflecting sericulture or textile production have also adopted this ukiyo-e style, in which women wear kimonos of lower-class working women.
From Japan to modern times, there is a special beauty painting school, which draws mostly Japanese women wearing kimonos.
Starting from Meiji 30 years ago, Japanese painters began to create new beauty paintings, which can be roughly divided into three schools. One is the modern beauty painting school, born out of ukiyo-e painting, represented by Ito Kanto; Second, the beauty paintings are mainly ladies and upper-class ladies, represented by the four mountains. Among them, there are groups of Japanese ladies wearing kimonos in the works lined with Songyuan, with graceful and plump faces. The method of making kimono depicted is also very clear, and it is very clear whether it is a twisted or a friend. Third, the beauty painting combining East and West depicts Japanese women wearing kimonos in the style of western painting.
The above works of art are related to kimono. It not only preserves the colors, fabrics, patterns, styles and accessories of kimonos in different periods in history, but also reflects the way of wearing kimonos and the various postures of Japanese people wearing kimonos. In addition, these works are actually kimonos in the eyes of artists, revealing the attitudes and feelings of artists and their contemporaries towards kimonos.
Types of kimonos
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There are many kinds of kimonos, not only men and women, unmarried and married, but also casual clothes and formal clothes. Men's kimonos are few in style, monotonous in color, dark in color, thin in belt and convenient to wear. Women's kimonos have various styles, bright colors and wide waist. Different kimono belts have different knots and different hairstyles. Married women wear "cuff" kimono, while unmarried women wear "cuff vibration" kimono. In addition, according to the different purposes of going out, such as visiting, playing and shopping, the patterns, colors and styles of wearing kimonos are also different.
1. Sleeve kimono: The dresses worn by women attending relatives' weddings and formal ceremonies are mainly divided into black sleeves and colored sleeves. With black as the background, dyed with five patterns, patterns are printed on both ends of the hem of the kimono predecessor, which is called "black sleeves" and used by married women; There are three or one patterns printed on fabrics of other colors, and there are patterns on the hem, which is called "color sleeves". The first picture is black sleeves.
2. Vibrating sleeve kimono: also known as long-sleeved dress, it is a lady's first dress. According to the sleeve length, it can be divided into "big vibrating sleeve", "middle vibrating sleeve" and "small vibrating sleeve", among which "middle vibrating sleeve" is the most worn. Mainly used for bar mitzvah, graduation ceremony, banquets, parties, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kimono gives people a sense of fashion, more and more married women wear "vibrating sleeves".
3. Visit the kimono: It is a kimono with an overall pattern. It is a picture from hem, left front sleeve, left shoulder to collar. In recent years, as the most popular simple gift, visiting kimono is very popular. School opening ceremony, friends' banquets, parties, tea parties and other occasions can be worn, without age and marriage restrictions.
4. Small pattern kimono: clothes are dyed with small broken flowers. Because it is very suitable for practicing wearing, it is generally used as daily fashion and can often be seen on dating and shopping occasions. Small pattern kimono is also used by young women for semi-formal parties.
5. mourning clothes: wear all black at the funeral, including the belt.
6. Wedding dress: the dress worn when getting married.
7. Bathrobe: Wear it before bathing.
8. Men's kimono: A men's kimono is a formal dress with a patterned top and skirt. Except for black, other patterned coats and skirts are just simple gifts, which can be matched with clothes at will.
9. Plain kimono: This is a monochrome kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be worn as clothes. If there is no pattern, it can be used as a daily fashion dress.
10. "Fuxia" kimono: The patterns of sleeves, front and back and collar are all kimonos printed from bottom to top. Lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimonos.
1 1. 12 single: it is a full set of dresses worn by ancient women when they entered the palace or on festivals. Divided into Tang suit, single coat, watch, etc. * * * 12th floor.
The following are the sub-categories of kimonos
Vibrate the sleeve and leave the sleeve to visit Xiao Li (こもん)? (つむぎ) ールァンサンブルゆかた) Feather Weaving (どど))
Incidental product
There are umbrellas, scarves, bags and the corner of Nagoya.
How to wear kimono
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Basic threading method
First of all, the first step is to put on the foot bag (socks), and then put it on neatly in order, and don't tie the belt too tightly.
1. Put on the kimono and put the sleeve of the undershirt into the kimono sleeve. Adjust the back seam of the kimono to the center of the back, and then fix the shirt and the collar of the kimono together with clips.
2. Lift the collar by hand and adjust the length of the hem, so as not to touch the ground.
3. Open the kimono, put the front collar at the position of the waist bone and determine the width of the front. The edge of kimono should be aligned with the side of the body.
4. After determining the width, slowly open the front, then fit the bottom to a certain width, and then raise the lower part of the collar held by the right hand by 10 cm to make the lower cycloid tilt.
5. Repeat the previous action, and raise the lower half of the collar held by the left hand by 5cm, being careful not to misplace it. After the waist appears, the wrinkles are adjusted upwards.
6. Tie the first rope around your waist. The belt is tied from the front of the body to the front, and the thread crosses at the back and then tied back to the front.
7. Smooth out the wrinkles at the waist. Put your hand into the gap under the kimono sleeve, check whether the kimono is stuck by the belt, and flatten the redundant part behind it.
8. Similarly, flatten the extra part of the chest, pull the crease to the armpit, grab the sleeve with both hands and gently pull the cuff.
9. Check whether the two collars are in good condition. If there is any dislocation, put your hand into the slit under the armbar to adjust it. The neckline slit should not be too big or too small.
10. Tie a second rope under your chest. The extra part must be pulled neatly, and the repeated part in front is horizontal.
1 1. Stand up straight and tie a small belt named "IDA" on your chest. Because the small belt is elastic, be careful not to tie it too tightly.
12. Check whether the chest and back are folded loosely, and if so, flatten them to the armpit. After the whole work is finished, check whether there are any mistakes with a big mirror, and then take off the clip on the collar.
Binding method of belt
If you wear a tie alone, you can tie a knot on your chest, then hold the knot in your right hand, hold the lower side of your back in your left hand, and carry it from the right side to your back.
1. Fold the waist width up and down and stick it on the waist, and take the knot length, which should be 20 cm.
2. Hang the knotted part on your shoulder and wrap the rest around your waist twice.
3. After two turns around the waist, the remaining belt is folded in half, and one end is hung on the shoulder and tied.
4. Keep your feet slightly apart to stabilize your body, and then tighten your belt.
5. Pick up the knotted part and fold it in half.
6. Tie a rope on your shoulder and fix your eyes on the rope with a clip.
7. Flatten the folds of the winged part.
8. The length of the knot wing is shoulder width, and the front side is rolled up.
9. Pick up the knotted wings, put a pillow on the belt pad and roll it up.
10. Fold the knotted wings into beautiful folds and stick them on your back.
1 1. Open the knots and arrange them beautifully. When finished, do another inspection and adjust the angle of the wing.
Taboo of kimono
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Dress taboo
Japan has the custom of "evoking the soul" with clothes: people either sit by the pillow of the deceased, climb on the roof to face the mountains and seas, or wave the clothes of the deceased to call back the deceased loudly. When washing old clothes for the dead, wash them north and dry them at midnight. After washing, it must be neatly folded. After a period of collection, hit it with a stick a few times before the living can wear it. Therefore, northerners never dry their daily laundry, nor do they dry it outside at night.
In cities, on the first day of the first month, most families don't wash clothes. In ancient customs, washing clothes is not allowed on 1, 15, 28, or even on the other side of Memorial Day every month. Of course, this is a festival that needs a good rest, and it is also afraid that the soul of the sacrificial object will float past and attach to the clothes to be dried. When wearing new clothes, some areas (such as Jizhou) put the clothes on the pillars first; Some places (Okinawa) want to sing "I am also a thousand years old, and the column is also a thousand years old" and "I am thin and strong." Even if you don't put the wooden column in first, you should fold it up and knock it twice before using it. It's all because I'm worried that there is some kind of soul hidden in my clothes. Collect it for a while and hit it with a stick, or put it through a wooden post first. From the subjective desire, I hope it can play a role in eliminating disasters and avoiding evil spirits.
"Bu Ji" contains: "Without a crown, it looks like a dead man's clothes", and there is a legend in Qinyang, Henan Province that "I changed my skirt and remarried others". Because when the deceased goes to the underworld, it is completely opposite to the Yang world. After death, he has to wear clothes and hats. Japanese custom, when people are buried after death, they should cover their skirts to the left, which means that the clothes of the deceased are the opposite of those of the living. Therefore, people usually wear clothes, the most taboo is to nest the collar inside, or take the future as the front and the inside as the surface.
Similarly, because of animism, people think that the clothes they wear must contain their own souls. Giving your clothes to your closest friends is tantamount to giving your soul to each other, which is sincere. When some people give clothes, they will put a five-yuan yen in their pockets, which is a homonym for five yuan, meaning "imperial decree" (it's your destiny). Now there are gifts of "clothes money" and "money with you", which are all manifestations of this custom.
Color taboo
China folk taboos once divided the colors of clothing into four categories: expensive color taboo, cheap color taboo, fierce color taboo and bright color taboo.
According to the Book of Rites, the clothes of Tianqi vary in color due to different seasons, and are divided into five colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black according to the yin and yang elements of the season.
Emperor Taizong Zhenguan set the color of official robes for four years, and purple was listed in front of Zhu: purple clothes were more than three products; Four products and five products; Six products are dark green; Seven products are light green; Eight products are dark blue; Nine products are light green.
It can be said that color taboos in Japanese history are similar to these in different degrees.
In 605 AD, that is, in the 11th year of Tuguhun, Shoto Kutaishi promulgated the "Twelve Pin Guan" and used the crown accordingly.
From top to bottom, it is morality (purple), benevolence (green), courtesy (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white) and wisdom (black). These six colors and crowns are subdivided into two types: size and size, with * * * twelve orders.
In Japanese history, orange, crimson, cyan and purple were designated as the dress colors of crown prince, emperor, emperor and prince respectively, which restricted others' use. Especially crimson and purple, are not allowed to be used by people outside the royal family. This rule continued until 1945.
On the murals of Takamatsu's ancient tomb in Japan, there are not only portraits of men and women in Tang costumes, but also pictures of Qinglong, Suzaku, White Tiger and Xuanwu (black turtle) as the patrons of the four directions. Until today, in some parts of Japan, white and red are generally not used for grand ceremonies when wearing kimonos. Because: white represents holiness and purity; Red symbolizes magic.
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