The costumes of Naxi nationality

What kind of Naxi costumes are quaint and quaint? The clothing of Naxi nationality is a wonderful flower in its traditional culture. Young women's clothing colors tend to be mainly bright and gorgeous colors, while middle-aged and elderly women's clothing colors tend to use blue and black fabrics, which are solemn and elegant.

Naxi people live in the northwest of Yunnan Province in China and the southwest of Sichuan Province. Lijiang Naxi Autonomous County and Lugu Lake area at the junction of Sichuan and Yunnan are the two main settlements of Naxi people, and the rest are scattered in Zhongdian, Weixi, Yongsheng, Yanbian, Yanyuan, Muli and Mangkang counties. This is a mountainous area, backed by the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau and facing the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, with magnificent mountains and rivers, beautiful scenery, simple folk customs and rich cultural heritage. It is regarded as a beautiful, mysterious and rich "Shangri-La". Today, Old Town of Lijiang, where Naxi people live in compact communities, has been listed as a world cultural heritage, which has attracted attention at home and abroad.

What are the costumes of Naxi nationality? 1. Introduction to Nationalities.

In China, the Dai population is over one million, and Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, Dehong Autonomous Prefecture, Gengma, Menglian, Yuanjiang and Xinping County are relatively concentrated areas. Dai costumes are elegant and beautiful, which not only pay attention to practicality, but also have strong decorative meaning, which can reflect the national personality of loving life and advocating the beauty of neutrality. All kinds of Dai women's dresses can show the graceful figure of women. Dai women like to wear long hair and tie it on their heads. Some of them are decorated with combs or flowers, some are wearing headscarves, some are wearing tall cylindrical hats, and some are wearing top hats, each with its own beauty and characteristics. If it is a festive occasion, girls especially like to put flowers and perfume in their hair styles, and then put on exquisite dresses made of satin, nylon, corduroy and gold velvet. Make them feel more attractive. Dai costumes have distinctive national characteristics, generous and elegant, colorful. Some people say that Dai women's clothes are the most beautiful in the world, colorful and beautiful like a proud peacock. As long as people who know the situation feel that this statement is not exaggerated at all. Generally speaking, Dai women are slim, pure and beautiful, and graceful, so they are called "golden peacocks".

2. Color contrast between men's and women's clothing

There is little difference in men's wear across the country. Generally, you often wear a collarless double-breasted or large-breasted small sleeve coat, long-sleeved trousers and white cloth, pink cloth or blue cloth.

Dai women's clothing varies from region to region. Wear tight skirts, tops are mostly thin cloth or silk, mostly light colors, and white, tender yellow, water red, flesh color and spring flower color are all their favorite colors. Skirts are mainly dark, which can be divided into two types: all-in-one and first-flower. Clear colors are dark blue, lake blue, black, red, purplish red, purplish blue and so on. And the first flowers are varied, but most of them are light-colored and dark, bright and elegant. Silver belt is a special ornament on the waist of Dai girls. Made of silver wire and silver sheet, the width and fine lines are beautiful. Usually tied around the waist, exposed under the blouse. Women should wear some keys at holiday parties and street trips. People in Dai villages can judge whether a woman is married or not by the lack of keys. Married women have keys, unmarried women don't wear them.

Three. Classification and color contrast

It can be divided into four types: Xishuangbanna, Dehong, Yuanjiang-Xinping and Yuanyang-Honghe-Jinping.

Dai women in Xishuangbanna wear tight underwear, such as white, striped or sky blue, with tight collarless short sleeves, and their lower bodies are mostly long skirts with colors and feet, with exquisite silver belts.

Some Dai women in Dehong area also wear colorful big skirts and blouses, while others (such as Luxi and Yingjiang) wear white or other light-colored big-breasted blouses, trousers and embroidered waists, and then change them to double-breasted blouses and full skirts after marriage. Most young women leave their hair at the top, while women over middle age wear black high hats. Xishuangbanna is known as "the hometown of peacocks" and "the paradise of white elephants". Dai people worship peacocks and elephants very much. They often weave peacock and elephant patterns on skirts, bags, quilts, curtains, floor mats, towels and other daily necessities, and each graphic color is given a specific image content. For example, the red and green skirt is to commemorate the ancestors; The elephant pattern symbolizes the bumper harvest of grain; Peacock pattern symbolizes auspiciousness, etc.

The "Huayao Dai" in Xinping and Yuanjiang areas wore cardigans and black skirts, which were decorated with colorful strips of cloth and silver bubbles to form various patterns, which were dazzling. Clothing has its own characteristics, or gorgeous and colorful, or elegant and exquisite, but the color is mainly black and red, and the headdress is very gorgeous. Except for Della's leg-wide pants and knee-high blue right-handed t-shirt, all other subjects wear short black skirts and wear leggings when going out. They like to decorate collars, sleeves, lapels, Baotou and skirts with colorful embroidery and fabrics. The coat is divided into two parts: the underwear has a round neck or vertical collar, and the collar is decorated with silver bubbles or fish-shaped ornaments. The coat has long sleeves and short sleeves, but no buttons and buttons. The Dai Ya branch of Xinping also decorated its skirts, abdomen, back and forehead with shiny silver bubbles and fish-shaped silverware, and its fingers, ears and wrists with silver ornaments. Once you walk, you will be covered with silver ornaments and jingle, adding infinite vitality. Dai-ya women wear hats with upturned edges and exquisite and small colored waist reeds, which have become the symbol of "Huayao Dai". The tube skirts of Dai women in Xinping and Yuanjiang are all decorated with colorful cloth and silver bubbles, which are dazzling, especially the belts, so they are called Huayao Dai flowers ... >>

Dress characteristics of Naxi costumes Naxi unmarried girls like to tie long braids behind their waists, or wear headscarves and hats. Women also like to wear earrings, rings, silver or jade bracelets and gold and silver necklaces. Most of the big-breasted women's coats of Naxi nationality in Lijiang are cloth robes, and the basic structure is big sleeves, collarless and sandwich, with short front and long back. When wearing it, the cuffs are rolled to the elbows, the waist is covered with pleats, and the back is covered with a layer of "sheepskin". Because the altitude, temperature, aquatic plants and forests in Lijiang are all suitable for the development of animal husbandry, cattle and sheep fur has become an important part of Naxi costumes. There is a description in the ancient Dongba Sutra "Meeting the East God": "Heaven and earth move, two brothers and sisters are born and become a family, herding white sheep, making clothes and blankets with wool, and making hats and belts with wool ..." Up to now, the "sheepskin shawl" of Naxi women is still a major symbol of national costumes. Sheepskin is called "yoke" in Pinasi language. Black pure sheepskin is made of mirabilite and glutinous rice flour, and then made according to genre. Sew a black velvet or black sheepskin neck, decorate it with seven round colorful velvet embroidered yokes Miu (sheepskin eyes), then order seven groups of fine white sheep thongs to make the yoke collapse (sheepskin whiskers) and a pair of white cloth yokes (sheepskin straps). Embroidered with blue butterfly pattern, one end is fixed on the back of sheepskin, the sheepskin is draped on the back, the shoulder straps are crossed on the chest, and then the sheepskin is tied tightly around the back from the lower end, and the tail end naturally hangs down, similar to the "tail" and very similar to Dongba's "sheepskin". The belt of Naxi Mosuo women in Ninglang is made of many wide strips of cloth, which are wrapped around the waist layer by layer, and the width can reach more than 20 cm. Under the belt is a wide pleated dress. The national costumes of Naxi nationality, represented by Dayan Ancient City in Lijiang County, are generally worn by unmarried women with long hair or long hair. Married women wear a bun on their heads and like to wear a blue hat. In terms of clothing, the long gown with wide waist and big sleeves, reaching to the knees at the front and the shin at the back, is short at the front and long at the back. When wearing it, the cuffs are rolled up to the elbows, and with a vest, the pants are worn. It is a pleated waist sewn with black and white blue cotton cloth. It is like a fan from waist to knee. It is enough to wear boat-shaped embroidered shoes. Lace is embroidered on the collar, sleeves and lapels, which is simple and generous. Because Naxi nationality is deeply influenced by Han nationality, men's clothing is basically the same as that of Han nationality, wearing robes, jackets or double-breasted tops and trousers. Women's wear, except for the custom of wearing skirts in some places, has been changed to wearing pants, but the whole suit. It still has distinctive national characteristics. The most distinctive feature of Naxi women's dress is the seven-star sheepskin shawl behind her, on which seven embroidered circular cloth circles with a diameter of about two inches are arranged side by side, and each cloth circle has a pair of hanging nails. There are many different versions about the origin of this kind of clothing. More commonly, it stands for Seven Stars, which means "Dai Xing Dai Yue". It is said that the circle of cloth is embroidered with fine star maps with silk thread, and the hanging spikes represent the light of stars. Legend has it that in ancient times, there was a hardworking, capable, intelligent and beautiful Naxi girl named Ying Gu who struggled with drought demons for nine days and died of exhaustion. In recognition of Yinggu's brave behavior, Baisha Sanduo made seven round stars from seven cold suns swallowed by Xue Jinglong and put them on Yinggu's coat. Later, Naxi girls imitated the English aunt and nailed the seven-star pattern on the shawl, symbolizing hard work and courage. There is also a saying that the Naxi people have regarded frogs as a god of wisdom since ancient times, which can solve people's difficulties. Therefore, those circular patterns represent frog's eyes and are historical relics of frog totem worship. There are other characteristics in the clothing of Mosuo people in Ninglang area. Mosuo women like to make thick wigs with yak tails or threads, wear twisted cloth heads, short shirts and very wide dresses. The waist is wrapped in a long and wide strip of cloth. Naxi women like to wear bracelets, earrings and other accessories.

There are two kinds of Naxi women's dresses. The second type is found in Zhongdian, Bai Di. Naxi women there have long hair tied behind their heads or braided into long braids and decorated with patterned round silver medals. Wearing a white linen gown with long crotch, black hem, colored embroidery, colored plaid with black background on the belt, and hanging wool tassels. A long pleated skirt with colored stripes under the trousers, felt shoes or boots, with white goatskin on the back. Its clothing color is simple and elegant, simple and elegant. Naxi women everywhere generally wear earrings, rings and bracelets, and some have silver whiskers on their chests. Clothing and accessories are well matched, natural and harmonious, and very attractive. The sheepskin back decoration of Naxi women is the most distinctive part of their costumes, which contains rich cultural connotations. This kind of back decoration is made of sheepskin and put on the back, so it is commonly called "sheepskin shawl". Sheepskin shawls are made of black and white sheep or goatskin, which are repeatedly rubbed and cut. The sheepskin shawls in different regions have different shapes, and Naxi women's sheepskin shawls in Zhongdian and Weixi are not decorated much. The sheepskin shawl of Naxi women in Lijiang area is best to be pure black. The upper part of the sheepskin shawl is horizontally inlaid with a piece of black (woolen cloth) or black woolen cloth lined with sky blue cotton cloth, and the lower part is sewn with seven pairs of thongs and seven parallel circular colored embroidered cloth discs. The shoulders of traditional sheepskin shawls are also embroidered with two circular colored embroidered cloth discs. When wearing it, the front two embroidered strips are tied to the chest, with patterns such as conch, water wave, potted flower, lantern, bee and butterfly embroidered at both ends, and some people dance hand in hand, which is said to symbolize the hustle and bustle of Naxi people like bees and butterflies, and it is a sweet and passionate feeling to exchange their hard work for life. Naxi sheepskin shawls are mainly worn by women, and men used to wear them. This shawl originated from the nomadic life of Naxi ancestors, and its development has gone through three stages. In ancient times, sheepskin shawl was the main tool for Naxi ancestors to keep out the cold. At that time, Naxi people were nomadic tribes in the mountains, mainly grazing. They peeled off the sheepskin and hung it on their shoulders to keep out the cold. Because labor needs to carry heavy objects, sheepskin shawls also have a load-bearing function. With the further development of social culture and the improvement of people's aesthetic consciousness, sheepskin shawls began to develop in the direction of applicability and beauty, and their decorative functions became increasingly prominent, becoming the unique clothing of Naxi women today.

The traditional costumes of Naxi men can be roughly divided into two types: one is Lijiang, and the other is Zhongdian March 8th. Lijiang Naxi men have short hair and wear felt hats or buns. Among the felt hats, there is a kind of hat with a half-curled edge called the magpie nest hat, which is very unique. Wear linen cotton-padded clothes inside the upper body and wool felt or sheepskin vest outside. Wear black or blue trousers, belts, cloth shoes and leather shoes. Naxi men in the area around the Three Dams in Zhongdian wear linen pants, which is a long-sleeved jacket with right lapel or double-breasted buttons, reaching to the abdomen and wrapped in red cloth. The men's wear of Naxi people all over the country is simple, colorful and looks simple and natural.

What are the characteristics of Naxi costumes (= @ _ @ =)? The men's wear of Naxi nationality basically changes with the objects of contact, so let's just talk about women's wear.

1。 Thick, some even like cloth armor. This is related to the local temperature and climate.

2。 Calm and simple. The color matching of clothes is mainly black (or various dark colors), and on this basis, it is matched with blue and white blocks. The classic color scheme is "blue, white, black" or "red, white and black", and the five-color Bunasi people like to use it (after all, the ethnic origin is the same). Among them, "blue, white and black" is the most classic color scheme, and there is a saying in Naxi language called "Naxi standard beauty", which means "Naxi blue and white match"-"Naxi people wear blue and white clothes most appropriately.

In addition, by the way, before liberation, civilians were not allowed to use red Rayna Sue fabrics at will, and only the upper classes in Mu and other places could use them.

3。 Simple and generous. Traditionally, Nachang national costumes do not use embroidery and other decorative techniques, nor do they use too bright colors. The atmosphere reflected by the clean and straight solid color block is its aesthetic point. Looking at the overall costumes of Naxi women, we can find that the only places with complicated colors are the small disks and ribbons (five-color cloth) on the shawl and headdress, and the only embroidery place is the top of the shawl ribbon, and it is very simple white background and black line pixel embroidery (the words seem a little strange ...).

Why? You know, in the past, some Naxi people looked down on ..................., a mountaineer who was "wearing all his belongings for fear that others wouldn't know". For this reason, Naxi women seldom decorate themselves with flowers, preferring small ornaments such as silver bracelets.

4。 Suitable for work. Praise for women's "labor beauty" and "production beauty" has always been a major focus of Naxi people's aesthetics, so in any case, they will not design shapes that deviate from this aesthetic. (what? You said skirts get dirty easily when mopping the floor? -Come on, they wash more often ... Besides, before liberation, only Jia's daughter could wear a long skirt that reached her feet (.................)

5。 Linear modeling. Although the costumes of Naxi people in Yanyuan, Muli and Lijiang are quite different, there are almost no curves in tailoring and appearance, and pleated skirts are dense vertical lines. ...

6。 Sheepskin shawl This is the core element, needless to say. Sheepskin shawl is not only the witness of Naxi migration and labor history, but also the most direct embodiment of Naxi Nationality Religion spirit-Dongba religion in clothing. Please check the specific information separately, and we will skip it (several legends are related ...).

7。 Less headgear.

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The above is the concept I got from reading materials and discussing with fellow villagers. After liberation, clothing has great freedom, which is not discussed.

Ps: Did I answer irrelevant questions? (wry smile-

Dongba costumes Naxi people not only have their own unique culture, but also their costumes are colorful and distinctive, which is mainly reflected in the costumes of Naxi women. The border area between Sichuan and Yunnan, where Naxi people live together, has towering mountains with an average elevation of more than 2,700 meters. Yulong Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain stand like crystal jade screens in the north of Lijiang and the southeast of Zhongdian. There are more than 240 thousand Naxi people, who are distributed in the northwest of Yunnan Province and the southwest of Sichuan Province. Lijiang County, with a population of about 6.5438+0.7 million, is the main inhabited area of Naxi nationality. Dai women are a beautiful cultural landscape in Old Town of Lijiang. They are strong, bright, enthusiastic and simple, and are famous for their diligence and ability. Just like the seven embroidered discs on the sheepskin shawl they wear, they shoulder the sun, the moon and the stars, commonly known as "Dai Yue Dai Xing", which symbolizes the hard work of Naxi women. They worked day and night and took on almost all the housework. In order to adapt to the production of agriculture and animal husbandry in plateau areas, the ancient Naxi people generally used self-woven linen or coarse cotton cloth as clothing materials. Men wear short coats and trousers, while women wear short coats and long skirts. Men and women, mostly * * * shoes and socks, a belt with flowers, covered with sheepskin or felt. The sheepskin shawl on Naxi women's backs has both decorative function and practical value. They mainly carry heavy objects by shoulders, so shawls can protect their backs. Later, due to the influence of the Han nationality, men's wear was basically the same as that of the Han nationality. Women's clothing, except for the custom of wearing skirts in some places, has been replaced by trousers, but the overall clothing still has distinctive national characteristics. When working or going out, they wear robes, vests, trousers, pleated aprons and sheepskin shawls. The shawl is beautifully made, with two big circles on the shoulders and seven small circles on the back, commonly known as "seven stars". It is said that the silk thread embroidered on the circular cloth circle is a beautiful star map, and the hanging spikes indicate the light of the stars. Legend has it that Yinggu, a hardworking, capable, intelligent and beautiful Naxi girl in ancient times, struggled with the drought demon for nine days and finally collapsed and died. In recognition of Ying Gu's brave behavior, Baisha Sanduo pinched seven cold suns swallowed by Xue Jinglong controlled by the drought demon into seven round stars and put them on Ying Gu's coat. Later, Naxi girls imitated the English aunt and nailed the seven-star pattern on the shawl, symbolizing Dai Yue's diligence and courage. There is also a saying that the Naxi people have regarded frogs as a god of wisdom since ancient times, which can solve people's difficulties. Therefore, those circular patterns represent frog's eyes and are historical relics of frog totem worship.

What are the necessary costumes for Naxi women? Now commonly known as "Pixing Dai Yue".

If you want to say something special, focus on shawls and pleated skirts. The shawl says "astringency" and the pleated skirt says "forehead lifting" (continued reading)

What do Naxi people wear? Dai Yue wears stars, and the backs of their clothes are decorated with stars, which means that Dai Yue wears stars.

It's about the hard work of Naxi people, leaving early and returning late.