Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional festivals - What are the makeup forms and methods of women in Tang Dynasty?

What are the makeup forms and methods of women in Tang Dynasty?

The dress, hairstyle and makeup of women in Tang Dynasty can be divided into three categories: upper and lower skirts, Hu clothes and men's clothes. The basic structure of narrow-sleeved shirts and long skirts in Confucianism is skirt, blouse and skirt (pèi). Skirts are rich in colors, mainly red, green and yellow, as well as purple and blue. In terms of materials, there are: silk skirt, sand ball, Luo skirt, silver mud ball, gold thread skirt, golden mud butterfly skirt, hundred birds hair ball and so on. A hundred birds' hair skirt is the most luxurious skirt in Tang Dynasty. Mountain is a summer dress, thinner; Confucianism is winter clothes, with clips and cotton. The shirts in the early Tang Dynasty were very short, with narrow sleeves tucked in the waist of the skirt. Later, it gradually widened, and the colors were white, blue, green, yellow and red, and red shirts were used. Shirts are usually made of cloth, and there are also Luo, with gold and silver threads on them; Confucianism often embroiders various patterns, such as "golden mud sewing thin silk shirts" and "embroidery with branches". Hairstyles of women in Tang Dynasty can be divided into two categories: bun and hairstyle. The bun is tied on the top of the head and solid in the middle. Comb your hair into a hollow circle, and unmarried women comb it more. Style of bun: concentric bun, reverse bun, heart-to-heart bun, couple bun, cloud-throwing bun, unintentional bun, family-throwing bun, Japanese-style falling bun, plucking bun, horse-falling bun, lily bun, Changle bun, five-full bun, high bun, low bun and side bun. Jewelry on the bun: flowers, fake flowers (peony, peach blossom, pink flower, gardenia, camellia), flowers, pearls, stone hairpin and so on. Seven steps of facial makeup: 1. Powder coating: Apply lead powder thinly first, and then apply rouge. Rouge halo products include pomegranate jiao, tender Wu Xiang, holy sandalwood heart, pearl dew, charming flower slave and so on. 2. In addition, apply yellow powder on your forehead, that is, your forehead is yellow. 3. Thrush. 4. Flower bud: also called flower bud and flatterer. It is a kind of decoration that sticks various patterns on the eyebrows. 5. noodles. Dimples on the cheeks are shaped like beans, peaches, apricots, stars, meniscus and so on. Scarlet, yellow and ink can also be used. 6. Oblique red. Red decorations painted on temples. 7. Click your lips. The so-called "red lips". 1. The dress culture of women in the Tang Dynasty was half hidden-the open dress system of women in the Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China feudal society. Under the premise of strong national strength and full self-confidence, its rulers implemented an open-minded policy and absorbed and absorbed all aspects of culture. For example, eight of the ten pieces of music (Le Yan) played by the court in the Tang Dynasty came from foreign countries or frontier minority areas (Xiliang, Gaochang, Qiuci, Shule, Guo Kang, Anguo, Tian Li and Koryo). The people also have full freedom of religious belief, and the rulers do not exclude foreign religions. Therefore, in addition to the original Buddhism and Taoism, the western Zoroastrianism, Nestorianism, Manichaeism and Islam were also introduced to China at this time. 2. Cultural Atmosphere of the Tang Dynasty Women in the Tang Dynasty had more freedom than previous generations and future generations. They can always show their faces, visit suburban cities, go to the opera and watch football, or go for an outing with men in spring. Du Fu's famous phrase, "The weather is fine on March 3, and the beauty of Chang 'an City is like a cloud", describes this scene. They can also actively pursue love. Unmarried girls can marry couples privately, and married women can divorce and remarry. In this open society, women in the Tang Dynasty changed the tradition of crying and standing behind the door without showing their faces, and made a series of bold attempts in clothing, such as abandoning the power curtain to cover their faces, which is a typical example. During the Tianbao period, many women also imitated men's clothes and wore robes, which were popular in the palace at first, and then gradually spread to the people and became the daily clothes of ordinary women. We can see this kind of clothing from the famous painter Zhang Xuan's "The Lady of the State of Guo You Chun Tu" in the Tang Dynasty. During Xuanzong period of Tang Dynasty, khufu was popular, and women wore khufu. The so-called "khufu" in the Tang Dynasty refers to the costumes of ethnic minorities in the western regions and foreign costumes such as India and Persia. When women wear Hu clothes, they also tie a belt around their waist and decorate them with Hu clothes, which is very charming and heroic. At the same time, Hu dance has become the main entertainment in people's daily life, so there is the story of An Lushan dragging his almost vertical belly to dance quickly to please Yang Guifei. 3. Collar styles in the Tang Dynasty There are also various styles of collars for women's wear in the Tang Dynasty, such as round neck, square collar, diagonal collar, straight collar, and chicken heart collar. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, a topless collar was also popular, in which underwear was not worn and the chest was exposed. This kind of dress is described in the Tang poems, such as "Shimada Hanzo with pink chest suspects dark snow" and "Long snow covers the chest". In addition, there is a more open dress, "Seeing the skin again", which was very popular in the middle and late Tang Dynasty and lasted until the Five Dynasties. This can be seen from the Flower Beauty Map by another famous painter in the Tang Dynasty, Zhou Pan. This kind of bold clothing is rare in China feudal society. 4. The perfect combination of elegance and luxury-the costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty can be divided into several types according to the times: one is traditional dresses. This style was popular in the early Tang Dynasty and basically followed the top-down traditional dress system of women in China since the Eastern Han Dynasty. The word "clothes" that we always talk about now actually means clothes. A petticoat is a petticoat, and clothes are put on. Dress actually refers to modern skirts, and clothes and petticoats are separated. This kind of women's dress is not a jumpsuit, but two pieces to wear until the end of the Ming Dynasty. The way to wear a coat is basically to tie a knot in the right hand horizontal collar or the inner front. There is a long skirt around the skirt below, and the coat is either tucked in or naturally loose. Later, this loose coat has been lengthened to cover the knees, and later developed into the back of the Ming Dynasty. 5. The perfect combination of elegance and luxury-Tang suit With the development, there are generally three types of women's coats in the Tang Dynasty: jackets, blouses and blouses. Yan is a coat or cotton-padded jacket with a narrow and short body. The coat is longer than the robe, the body is loose, and there are also coats or cotton-padded clothes. Yan and coat have narrow sleeves and long sleeves. Shirts are sleeveless sweatshirts, which absorb sweat and have double-breasted and right-breasted buttons. You can also wear shirts outside in spring and autumn, but unlike short-sleeved shirts, the latter has developed into the second half. In the past, the shape of the skirt has always been a rectangular square straight skirt, which is somewhat similar to today's kimono skirt. The style of the square skirt is stiff, which makes women look bad. Therefore, in the Tang Dynasty, skirts were popular in the form of high waist and wide swing mopping the floor, which not only revealed the curvy beauty of human body structure, but also showed rich and elegant demeanor. The structure of this skirt must be organically adapted to the main structure of the human body, so it is a pleated skirt with a round bottom, or a flared skirt. By the way, it is worth mentioning that this kind of skirt with a high waist and a chest has greatly influenced the dress style of women in North Korea and South Korea. In the Tang Dynasty, some clothes were semi-exposed. Zhou Juan wrote in his poem "Meeting Neighbors": "The skirt is half exposed". Li Qunyu wrote a poem for Song Ji: "The snow lamp on the chest shines obliquely". Fang Gan's poem "Giving Beauty" is "Powder Chest and Half Covering Snow". Ou Yangxun's Nanxiangzi: "Twenty-eight flowers, chest like snow, face like flowers". They are all portrayal of semi-naked dresses. Second, in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, China's traditional aesthetic concept was strengthened in clothing and began to go back to the ancients. From showing women's figure, gradually returning to the Qin and Han dynasties, the style of taking off the coat and sleeves, elegant as a fairy, and the clothing style is getting fatter and fatter. This style has always influenced the basic concept of women's wear in China in the later period. It is loose and fat with the body, which naturally becomes the object required by ethics, soft and natural, invisible and without desire. 6. The perfect combination of elegance and luxury-women's dresses in the middle and late Tang Dynasty were gorgeous, generally similar to dresses, and they wore tube tops directly inside-tube tops were originally underwear, but they were combined with skirts in the Tang Dynasty, so they were relaxed and natural without belts. Wearing blouses directly outside, blouses are generally gorgeous, basically dragged to the ground, and some are more than a few meters. For example, some sleeves are 4 feet wide and the ground is 5 feet. Therefore, just like later Europe, the length of clothes determines the status of women. Shirts are generally wide-sleeved, which is what we often see. The wide sleeves in the Tang Dynasty were basically square, similar to the kimono sleeves today. In addition, there was a kind of dress in the late Tang Dynasty, which was written by ladies-in-waiting. It is further proof of the transition from women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty to ancient etiquette clothing. This style is a multi-layer dress, which is very heavy and bulky to wear. First of all, I put on many layers of wide-sleeved tops, one on top of the other. Then I put on a heavy sweeping skirt, which is the famous "Tang skirt". Then I put on a wide-sleeved coat outside. Although cumbersome, it gives people a sense of stability and hierarchy. It is worth mentioning that the famous imperial kimono "Twelve Orders" in ancient Japan evolved from this kind of clothing. The Japanese call it "Tang suit", that is, clothes from the Tang Dynasty. The style has not changed much, but a little Japanese national characteristics have been added to the style.