Traditional Hanfu Folk Custom in Late Qing Dynasty

The ancient Hanfu culture is an important part of ancient traditional culture, with a long history, which has a far-reaching influence on the clothing culture of Japan, South Korea, Vietnam and Southeast Asia. So, what was the ancient Hanfu culture like? What are the characteristics and development process? Come with me to get to know it.

Cultural characteristics of ancient Hanfu;

"In ancient times, clothes representing the characteristics of the times were deep clothes, which could be the characteristics of ancient clothes. Those who are convinced by the old saying must arrive first. What is a coat? Confucius said in the Book of Rites: "Therefore, those who call it deep clothes should take the rest clothes, and the upper and lower parts are not connected. This kind of deep coat is connected with clothes, and the quilt is deep, so it is called deep coat. "

For details of the system, see Book of Rites Shenfu. The most important thing is "continue to sew and hook the edge." It needs to be sewn halfway. If you are tall, you can move your elbow. The length of the bow is as bad as the elbow ... the bow should conform to the rules, the bending clip should conform to the square, and the negative rope and ankle should be straight ... pure bow, edge, edge and half an inch wide. "... In a word, the system of deep clothes is the first in ancient costumes, and the leader of deep clothes has been popular for the longest time, not only in its system form, but also in its costume form.

Ma Duanlin's "Literature General Examination Wang Li Kao Guan Fu" said: "According to the system of three generations of clothes, although there are different people to take an examination of, except for the crown fu, only (end fu) is the most widely used. Duan Xuan can go from the emperor to the scholar, and the deep clothes can go from the emperor to Shu Ren ... As for the deep clothes, they are cut and sewn, so the cheap ones can be taken, the nobles can also take them, the court can take them, the Yan private ones can also take them, the emperor can take them, the old people can take them, the princes can take them, the sacrifices can be taken, the doctors can take them, the private ones can take them, and the guest sacrifices can be covered. The clothes are not cut, evil, round, hidden or extravagant. Its scale is eight feet eight inches, each picture is two feet two inches long and two feet two inches wide, and its four corners are square, so it is called the end. Its petticoats, the first three and the last four, should have countless accumulations, which are called petticoats. The ancients said, "The clothes are deep in the evening." (Refer to Huang Xianfan's "A Preliminary Study on the Interpretation of Ancient Books")

Changes of ancient Hanfu;

1. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing generally followed the Shang Dynasty's clothing system, but changed slightly. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. The sleeves are two sizes, and the collar is generally rectangular without buttons. Usually tied to the waist, and some still hang jade ornaments.

There were mainly two kinds of belts at that time: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt"; Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". At this time, a deep coat with exquisite curves appeared. Compared with other clothes, there is an obvious difference between top and bottom, which is called "continuous hem"

"Sewing" means skirt, "continuation" means lengthening skirt, and "hemming" means describing skirt style. Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt.

Qin is still black, so the standard color of Qin's clothing is black. But the style is still broad-chested and right-handed Basically follow the Warring States period.

3. Men's clothing styles in Han Dynasty can be roughly divided into two types: Ququ and Qu Zhi. Qu Luan, a kind of deep clothing popular in the Warring States period, was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was more common in the early Western Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was rare for men to wear deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes.

During the Qin and Han dynasties, clothes with deep curves were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. This kind of clothes is tight and narrow, long enough to mop the floor. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped.

The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes". In addition, the tight-fitting clothes with narrow sleeves in Han Dynasty. After many twists and turns, the clothes were wrapped around the hips and tied with ribbons. There are also exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on the clothes.

Both men and women can wear it in Han Dynasty. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it can't be used as a formal dress, because the ancient trousers had no crotch, only two trouser legs were put on the knees and tied around the waist with a belt.

If you don't put on a coat, these crotch-less pants will be exposed, which was considered disrespectful at that time, so you should wear a crooked deep coat outside. Later, with the improvement of clothing, the form of pants also improved, and crotch pants (called "crotch") appeared. As a result of the improvement of underwear, it is redundant to wrap the deep clothes around the front, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight lines gradually became popular, replacing the deep clothes.

4. During the Wei, Jin and Southern Dynasties, men's clothing had the characteristics of the times, generally wearing large sleeves. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.

Women's dresses in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, jackets and flannel, with skirts below. Most styles are frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight clothes, big cuffs, pleated skirts and long and loose hems, achieving a handsome and chic effect.

In Tang dynasty, in addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of dresses inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, a double-breasted sleeve shirt, a skirt and a Yu Pei ribbon. Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty.

During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much.