Introduction of National clothing categories

"Hanfu" is also called Huaxia clothing. During the more than 4,000 years from the accession of the Yellow Emperor (about 2698 BC) to the end of the Ming Dynasty (65438+the middle of the 7th century), the etiquette and costume system was formed with the Chinese etiquette culture as the core and through the worship of Zhou Rites by the Zhengshuo dynasties. Since Huangdi and Yao Shun ruled the world by hanging down their clothes, Hanfu has taken a basic shape. After the inheritance of etiquette and law in the Zhou Dynasty, a perfect costume system was formed, which was popularized to the people in the Han Dynasty and influenced the whole Chinese cultural circle through Confucianism and Chinese legal system. Japan, North Korea and Viet Nam have all enacted laws imitating China's clothing system. "Zuo Zhuan's Ten Years of Justice and Ding Gong" is sparse: "China has a big gift, so it is called Xia; The beauty of the clothes is called China. " Explain the meaning and connotation of "Huaxia". Since ancient times, China has been called "the country of dress etiquette", and "dress" has become synonymous with civilization and a part of Chinese civilization etiquette.

During the thousands of years from the Three Emperors and Five Emperors to the Ming Dynasty, the Han people, with their own wisdom, created a rich and colorful Hanfu culture and developed a unique clothing system-Hanfu system. The profound, well-organized, well-established and beautiful Hanfu is a rare treasure in China, which is worthy of every China person's pride.

The national costumes of the Han nationality in some historical stages, such as China's flag dress/cheongsam/mandarin jacket, can never be called "Hanfu", but can only be regarded as China costumes, because they have no normal evolution and convergence process with the real Hanfu, and are more formed due to specific times and historical events, with special fashion concepts.

The main features of Hanfu are horizontal lapels and straight lapels. Generally, there is no need for buttons, and there is no need to hide buttons (a few buttons are exposed later). They are mainly tied with ropes, giving people a free and easy feeling. In addition, the auxiliary use of cloth buttons (called "new buttons", different from the "one-word buttons" and "dish buttons" developed by northern nationalities in the later period). These characteristics of Hanfu are obviously different from those of other nationalities. Hanfu can be divided into formal clothes and regular clothes. From the shape point of view, there are mainly three kinds: "top and bottom clothes" (ancient top refers to bottom skirt), "deep clothes" (top and bottom clothes are sewn together) and "skirt" (short clothes). Among them, the coronation under the coat is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials; Robe clothing (deep clothing) is the common clothing of hundreds of officials, and skirt clothing is deeply loved by women because of its simplicity and beauty, belonging to ancient style (other men also wear it, called "men's clothing (skirt)"). Ordinary working people generally wear short clothes and pants.

Accessories headdress is one of the important parts of Han costumes. Ancient Han men and women put their hair in a bun and put it on their heads and fixed it with hairpins. Men often wear crowns, towels, hats and so on. , different shapes. Women's hair can also be combed into various styles, and they can wear all kinds of beading, walking and other accessories. Both sides of the temple are decorated with rich temples, and some people will bring curtains and door curtains when they travel.

1644 After the Qing army entered the customs, the Manchu nobles headed by Dourgen issued a "haircut order" on June 15th, the second year of Shunzhi (1645), saying: "Since this announcement, the capital has been restricted. If you avoid pity, you can cleverly argue that hell pays. " Manchu nobles shouted: "Keep your head, hair, hair." The Han people in the north were forced to surrender. Later, the Qing army forced the South Han people to shave their hair by force. At the same time, they also issued the "Yi Fu Order". On the ninth day of July in the second year of Shunzhi (1August 29th, 645), the Qing court issued Fu Yiling, which stipulated that "officials and people should shave their hair and dress in accordance with the current system" and forced people of all ethnic groups to change into full clothes or full clothes. This is called "shaving and changing clothes". The dome white hat is made of white cloth. The mouth of the hat is slightly larger than the top of the hat, and the edge is shallow, so it should be worn at the root of the upper ear. Generally, there are two layers inside and outside, and some add Arvin on the top of the hat. The white hat of Weining Hui nationality is a symbol of men's wear. Imam and Gawain students often wear them, but most people wear them on holidays. The hijab and the dove-tailed Baotou are the special signs that distinguish the Hui women in Weining from other ethnic groups. The headscarf is a triangular scarf made of cyan, white or light green cloth. Some women wear it during festivals. Dovetail-style baotou, wrapped in a blue handkerchief or green cloth, with unexposed hair and a pigeon tail in the middle. It is often used as a headdress by Hui women, especially middle-aged and elderly women in the paddy field dam area.

Hui costumes bordering Zhaotong and Ludian in Yunnan in the north and southwest of Weining. Men wear white handkerchiefs without sticking out, or white hats without folding. A sly white hat is embroidered with Arabic characters. Most of the jackets are short plainclothes, and a few wear long gowns, and the trouser legs are 7-9 inches wide. Girls like to wear earrings, usually one with a silver bell, and a few with two silver bells, which is light and delicate. I don't wear embroidered lace or red and green square towels, and my hair is mostly braided. The upper body is wearing a short suit with a long row of buttons, and the waist is embroidered, emphasizing color and seeking bright colors. Exquisite embroidered shoes with feet, silver bracelets and rings. After marriage, I wrapped my hair in a pigeon tail bun, which was not exposed and my clothes were slightly longer. With the increase of age, the color changes from fresh to light. The old woman wears a white headscarf on her head and the pigeon wears a white headscarf on her tail.

The southwest is adjacent to Huize and Xuanwei. Young and middle-aged men often wear sapphire, blue and white cloth to form large sleeves. Wear tight short-breasted clothes, with thin and short cuffs and several pieces overlapping. Buttons are mostly glue lines or cloth strips, and some buttons are welded with copper coins and arranged in pairs. Some coats, overcoats and robes. The coat is cut with blue cloth and sewn with white thread, and the lower edge is connected with eight pockets. It is black and white, with clear color and eye-catching. Pants are thigh pants with the widest cuffs. Before liberation, they must be sewn with eight small pieces of cloth, and the waist is folded into wrinkles. A married man wears a white embroidered belt around his waist, wears a beard, drags it below his knees and flutters with the wind when he walks. Married men's belts reflect the beauty of women's hand-sewing, which is one of the bases for evaluating women. Men often wear cloth ear sandals. Some young people like to wrap their heads with green silk handkerchiefs or white cloth. Black and white evenly cross, angular, commonly known as "magpie flower head", wearing silver earrings in both ears. After marriage, tie a bun, cover it with a bun, put on a silver hairpin, and some people tie a string of small silver bells on their heads. Walking, the bells jingle, crisp and pleasant. Wear a big skirt and a short coat, and often tie sky-blue cloth and flowers at the waist. The bottom coat is matched with the top coat, and it is generally appropriate to match clothes and trousers with different colors. Wear big flower shoes, mostly full of red and green flowers, and some shoes have red tassels on their toes. Manchu costumes are mainly divided into four parts:

Hat ornaments: Manchu women have no hats and men have hats, which are divided into high-top hats, casual hats, wind hats, felt hats and Kunqiu hats (women keep out the cold in winter);

Clothing: there are four main forms: flag clothing (that is, robes), mandarin jacket, vest and trousers. Men and women can wear flags regardless of season. Mandarin jackets are worn by rich people with status in spring, autumn and winter. A vest is a woman's coat. Pants are cotton trousers without waist, which are fixed with two straps, and are mostly worn by elderly women in cold weather. What makes Manchu people wear pants different from other nationalities is that they have to tie their legs to travel.

Shoe decoration: Budina is used for men's shoes, and the upper is inlaid with double thongs. Wear pigskin or cowhide boots in winter, and most elderly people wear high-waisted felt shoes. Women wear high-heeled shoes with wooden soles, which are narrow at the bottom and wide at the top, with the toe protruding from the upper wing and green flowers on both sides, like boats. Specifically, there are horseshoe shoes, flowerpot shoes, flat shoes, square shoes and pointed shoes;

Accessories: Accessories worn by Manchu people are divided into bone ornaments, stone ornaments, pearl ornaments, gold and silver ornaments, etc. What kind of jewelry to wear depends on status. Generally speaking, the quality of jewelry can show the status and wealth of a family.

The traditional dress of Manchu is flag dress and mandarin jacket.

Flag dress, called clothing interface in Manchu, is divided into four types: single, clip, leather and cotton. This kind of dress is obviously different from the upper and lower parts, which are one of the main forms of Hanfu. It is a favorite costume of Manchu men, also known as big gown. Manchu men wear flags with simple styles and structures. Originally a round neck worn by Manchu when riding and shooting (forming the habit of adding fake lapels in the late collarless period), it has a large waist, narrow sleeves, four-sided slits, left slits, buckles and straps, and is suitable for riding and shooting. Manchu women wear flag dresses with elegant styles and pay attention to decoration, neckline and sleeve heads. Graceful, there is a kind of women's cheongsam called big sleeves, embroidered in the sleeves, and pulled out more beautifully. Manchu women wear flag clothes and pay great attention to style and workmanship. The neckline, skirt and sleeve of the flag dress are embedded with several striped or colored teeth, and some even have a 18 hem, which is considered very beautiful. Later, some changes have taken place in the style of the national flag dress. The hem also changes from width to convergence; The cuffs also change from narrow to fat, from fat to thin, and fit better. Tibetans have a long history and splendid culture. Mainly distributed in Tibet, Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan and Yunnan. The basic structure of its clothing is fat waist, long sleeves and big chest robe. Wearing this kind of clothes with large structure can be used as a quilt when sleeping at night. The robe sleeves are wide and the arms are flexible, which is not only cold and warm, but also convenient for life and travel. When the temperature rises during the day, you can remove an arm to facilitate heat dissipation and body temperature regulation. Over time, taking off a sleeve has formed a unique style of Tibetan costumes. According to historical records and archaeological discoveries, this basic feature of Tibetan costumes was formed as early as the Warring States Period, and it still retains a strong plateau ethnic feature.

Both men and women love ornaments.

Tibetan men and women all over the country pay special attention to ornaments, which have many textures, such as silver, gold, pearls, agate, jade, turquoise, silk, jade, coral and amber. It has a wide range of uses, including headdress, hair accessories, sideburns, earrings, necklaces, chest ornaments, waist ornaments, rings and so on. Beautiful shape, mostly natural shape. Women like to wear corals, agates, necklaces and silver Buddha boxes; Men generally wear all kinds of waist knives, fire sickle and other accessories, as well as earrings, rings, bracelets and so on.

Bold and exquisite color matching

Another feature of Tibetan costumes is the gradual increase in color and composition. The lace of leather clothing in pastoral areas is usually composed of vertical color blocks such as blue, green, purple, cyan, yellow and rice, which form colorful ribbons in turn. Black, red, green and purple stripes with a width of 10 cm are usually arranged in turn on the shoulders, hem and cuffs of women's leather clothes. They often decorate their cross-patterned robes and boots, giving people the association of "charity", "caressing" and "being kind to others". They boldly use contrasting colors such as red, green, white, black, red, blue and Rayna Sue, and skillfully use a variety of colors and gold and silver threads to achieve a bright and harmonious artistic effect. The color matching is very bold and exquisite.

Tibetan women's dress culture

Tibetan women have slim figure, soft waist and beautiful appearance. They like dressing up very much and are good at dressing up. The rural girl on the Yarlung Zangbo River wears a black sleeveless robe with a red, white or green shirt inside, a rainbow apron around her waist, beautiful "Songba" boots, black hair mixed with five-color silk thread, and tied into a big braid on her head, which is simple, fresh, gentle and kind, just like a Gesang flower in the field.

Shepherdess's clothing has the breath of grassland, light leather, strong texture and strong figure; The fur robe is inlaid with black, red and green wide edges; There are various silver or copper tools hanging around the waist, such as milk hooks, needle sleeves, fire forks, flints, grazing whips, knives, etc. It is also an ornament that matches the waist. Shepherdess likes to put her hair in countless braids behind her, and her hair is covered with corals, shells, turquoise and silver coins. In the summer of konoha, the grass is green, the shepherds are in groups of three or five, the long skirts sweep the floor, and they walk leisurely, covered in ornaments, making a pleasant sound.

The costumes of Lhasa women have a unique charm. Their robes are usually made of dark satin, serge and cassock. In summer, I wear a sleeveless robe, lined with various colors of silk shirts and tight belts to match my elegant figure. Wearing a robe with sleeves in spring and autumn, wearing a fur coat in winter, as long as barefoot. Lhasa women dressed in costumes, wearing headdresses made of coral and turquoise, are called "bazhu"; Earrings inlaid with gold and silver and turquoise; Wear a silver bracelet on the left hand and a white conch on the right hand. The white conch is worn on the hand since childhood, and it is said that it can lead people to the other side of happiness after death. Neck hung with beeswax beads, chest hung with a silver box, containing Buddha, or all kinds of sacred objects. We can still see these clothes from the sommelier of today's festival celebration; Tibetan opera and traditional Chinese opera also appear on the stage from time to time.

Women in Lhasa, especially young women, are developing in the direction of simplicity, applicability, beauty and better display of body lines and aesthetic taste, whether in clothing or decoration. On the basis of traditional clothes, they showed various new styles. Miao costumes reflect the characteristics of Miao people's long history, scattered residence and diverse customs. There are strict differences in costumes among branches, counties and villages of Miao nationality. The main colors of their clothes are also different. The so-called "White Miao", "Black Miao", "Flower Miao" and "Han Miao" are all called by their own names or nicknames according to their clothing colors or styles, and some are called "Long skirt Miao" and "Short skirt Miao" according to women's skirts. In fact, the same name is strict, and women's clothes in different regions are different. Malipo people are also "white seedlings", wearing blue cloth with round neck and narrow sleeves lined with three black cloths and white clothes inside. The collar and chest are white, the forehead is wrapped with a white towel, and the white towel is wrapped with a black towel, which is black and white; The "white seedlings" around Zhenxiong and Weixin are dressed in blue-green long skirts and pleated skirts. All collars, cuffs and waists are embroidered with five-color silk thread, and black and blue cloth strips about five inches wide and more than ten feet long are wrapped around their heads. The outstanding white lies in white leggings.

Most Miao costumes are decorated with patterns, embroidery, embroidery, batik, knitting and lining, which are very beautiful and dazzling. Especially from embroidery patterns, we can often find the history and symbolic significance of Miao nationality, which can be described as "meaningful form". For example, Wenshan "Huamiao" has red, yellow, blue and white patterns embroidered on the collar and sleeves of its black round neck and narrow sleeves. The patterns are mostly flower-shaped and river-shaped. It is said that these patterns symbolize the place where Miao ancestors lived: red and green wavy patterns represent rivers, big flowers represent capitals, staggered patterns represent ridges, and mottled patterns represent ears of grain. The big flower seedlings in Luquan, Wuding and Anning love to wear shawls embroidered with three square patterns, which is in line with the saying in the Miao ancient song that "there are three flowers in Ge Chiyou's old training ground". Therefore, it is said that it symbolizes the ancient training ground and flags, and the patterns at both ends of the shawl represent the cities and streets of Beijing in the past ... The origin of these costumes is mostly related to the struggle between the ancient Miao nationality and the Yellow Emperor for the Central Plains. Therefore, not every man and woman who can embroider Miao costume patterns can embroider them at will. There are strict rules about where to decorate what patterns, what patterns represent, and what patterns people of what status and age should decorate.

In Wenshan and other places, Pianmiao wears a blue right cardigan and a skirt as long as their feet. They tied their legs with black cloth. Unmarried women curl their hair to one side, while married women put a wooden comb in their hair. "Flower Miao" has a black round neck and narrow sleeves. The leader is embroidered with red, yellow, blue and other colors, and the patterns are mostly flower-shaped and river-shaped. According to legend, these costume patterns are symbols of Miao people's past residence, such as red and green wavy patterns representing rivers, big flowers representing the capital, staggered striped ridges and flower spots representing ears of grain; She wore a skirt with few flowers, knee-length, tied around her waist and tied with a white cloth belt. She wears an embroidered towel at the back of her waist, with patterned leggings in the cavity and her hair tied in a bun. After marriage, put a wooden comb on the woman's mane, and then wrap the hair mane into a big plate with a blue-black cloth towel, with a wooden comb exposed at the top. Older women can also wrap their hair with dark thread and make it into a "horn" shape with a small top and a large bottom and a length of about half a foot. The "white seedlings" in Malipo County wear blue cloth with narrow round neck sleeves and three pieces of black cloth about three inches wide around the sleeves. Inside is a white dress, a long black cloth skirt, and the head is wrapped about a foot high. The towel is divided into two layers, and the forehead is wrapped with a white towel. The white towel was wrapped around several times, and it was black and white. The "White Miao" in Zhenxiong and Weixinli is dressed in a blue-black gown, embroidered skirt and knee-length. They are wrapped in blue-black cloth about five or six inches wide and a foot long. On their chests, there is a flower breast towel, which is tied around their waist and bound with white cloth. All the collars, cuffs and waist are embroidered with five-color silk threads. At the edge of the screen and other places, "Black Miao" wears a black lace skirt; "Flower seedlings" wear linen floral skirts; "Shimizu Miao" is wearing a blue cloth skirt; "Green Miao" wears blue clothes and blue cloth; "Young crops" clothes and blue cloth for the head handkerchief. Miao women wear silver ornaments, and there is a big silver ring around Wenshan. Flower seedling earrings big silver ring; Some have silver medals on their chests, and they wear circles, square bracelets and rings. When walking, the silver ornaments are sonorous, and the barrel skirt is shaking, which has great national and local characteristics. Miao men usually wear double-breasted or knee-length clothes, wide-brimmed trousers, a ribbon around their waist and a blue-black handkerchief on their heads, which is very simple. Hanbok, Han surname? Hanbok (Hanbok) is a traditional costume in Korea, which is greatly influenced by Hanbok skirts. Hanbok is characterized by simple design and no pockets.

Hanbok is divided into different types according to different occasions, including daily life, ceremonies and specific occasions. Etiquette clothes are worn in some formal and grand occasions, such as the baby's full moon, weddings and funerals.

In Lee's Korean era, queens, princesses, Weng Zhu and aristocratic women all wore Korean clothes called "hall clothes" when they entered the palace, and the tops were knee-length before and after. Men and women wear long coats when they go out, which is called "Zhouyi". Women sometimes cover their heads with Zhouyi.

Korean costumes are traditional costumes developed from ancient times to modern times. The lines of Hanbok are both curvy and straight, especially the blouses and long skirts of women's Hanbok, which are thin and thick, dignified and elegant. A hanbok reveals the perfect combination of oriental ethics and ultra-secular beauty.

Hanbok can also cover up the lack of body shape, make short people look taller, thin people look fuller, and increase the beauty of women. Now most Korean nationals are used to wearing suits, but many people still like to wear traditional national costumes at festivals or weddings. Women's Hanbok is a blouse with a flowing long skirt; The man wears a short coat with trousers and ties the wide trouser legs with thin straps. Tops and long skirts are colorful, and some even add bright and gorgeous brocade. Korean traditional clothing-Korean women's clothing consists of tops and loose skirts, which is very elegant, while men's clothing consists of tops and trousers. As a white man, the basic color of Korean clothing is white. According to different seasons and identities, the way of wearing clothes, fabrics and colors are different.

Hanbok is a kind of clothes that can show various feelings according to the color and material of clothes. Generally speaking, bright colors for tops and dark colors for bottoms are the most classic.

In the case of women's hanbok, the traditional color arrangement is red skirt with light green or white or blue coat, and blue skirt with red or white or yellow coat. In addition, purple skirt with light purple coat, dark purple skirt with pink or jade coat.