Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional stories - There are several kinds of costumes in the Tang Dynasty.
There are several kinds of costumes in the Tang Dynasty.
First, the paisley and big-sleeved bright clothes system: belongs to the regular dress. Its head comb Tang Dynasty unique hairstyle "high wall" hairpin large flowers, decorated with flower hairpin, rocking, moth eyebrow makeup, wearing an open collar and lapel, large-sleeved Mingyi, wearing a long skirt, wear a large ribbon, bundled with a soft belt, knot knot, feet with high shoes. In the Tang Dynasty, this dress was used as a foreign dress, and it was popular among the aristocratic ladies for a while. Second, the Tang ladies half-sleeved shirt system: is a popular dress unique to the Tang Dynasty, the first as a banquet wear, and later also as a regular wear, for the court concubines and celebrity ladies. Third, the Tang ladies banquets clothing: the upper body bundle chest, outside the gauze Mingyi, wearing a long skirt, skirt waist and chest, narrow and wide, the end of the soft belt, small band, belongs to the banquets within the dress, but the head combed buns and hairpins, so this dress can be used as a regular dress. Men's round neck robe and turban
Turban is a kind of scarf and silk for wrapping the head. Made of tung wood, kudzu silk, woven grass, leather, etc., it is like a fake hair bun to ensure a fixed shape. Turban two feet, like two bands, from the back of the head naturally hanging down to the neck or over the shoulder, or soft or hard, or round or wide, with the popularity of a slight change. Round neck robe shirt, also known as the round neck is the main clothing of the Sui and Tang dynasties, the official, the common people men, also known as the regular clothes. Generally round collar, right overlapping, in the robe below the application of a horizontal □. The traditional official coronation clothes, only in grand occasions and use, usually more to turban round neck robe under with ubi boots for fashion. Both free and easy, without losing the martial spirit. We can see from the ancient paintings of "step in the emperor's carriage", "riding map scroll", "Han Xizai night banquet" "Mrs. Guo Guo spring map "We can see that this style was popular with both men and women at that time. Tang Dynasty officials' robes and shirts, also use this style, mainly to color to distinguish between the ranks. Yellow robe was used as the emperor's imperial color, from the beginning of the Tang Dynasty has been used until the Qing Dynasty. Usually set more than three officials served purple, more than five served scarlet, six seven served green, eight nine served green. Why the ancients will be style, clothing color level is so important? On the surface is the human layer of this space to speak of the king, ministers, noble, lowly, to show the dignity of the hierarchy, in fact, in the space of its corresponding heaven, constituting a different color of life itself is substantively different: different space, different levels, different components of the particle composition, etc., can also be said to be the existence of life in the form of a different embodiment of it. Women's half-arms, 襦襦裙; big-sleeved shirts, long skirts, and ponchos; "Wangxian bun", "cloud bun", "double-dangling bun" and other hair ornaments 襦襦襦服裙, mainly short jackets or shirts on the top, and long skirts with ponchos underneath, with ponchos. The main purpose of the jacket is to wear a short jacket or shirt on top, a long skirt underneath, with a silk cloak and a half-arm, a phoenix-toe silk shoe or a straw shoe, a flower bun on the head, and a hat. For example, the ladies in Zhang Xuan's painting "Pounding Practice" have a very short jacket and a skirt with a waist as high as the armpits, and then the collar is tied with a silk belt and there are many variations such as a bared collar. After the Tang Dynasty, the sleeves were widened, and large-sleeved shirts became popular. From the "Hairpin Ladies", one can enjoy the elegant style of the so-called "six skirts dragging the water of the Xiangjiang River" and "the customary skirt with the breasts half-exposed". This flow of clouds and water like clothing, as the celestial ethereal immortal posture, wrapped around the body with the wind fluttering on the ground of the silk, in fact, is also the ancients imitated the celestial fairy as desired portraits only, is not just imagination, higher than us in this space of the human leg is hidden, hair does not need to be combed, that is, that the existence of the state. In fact, all the ancients of this "unity of heaven and man" principle of life and beauty are based on the people of that time to God's reverence and faith, but also only in the people have this good idea of God will show it to the people, the people will have the wisdom to have a truly beautiful living environment and way of life.
From Sui into the Tang Dynasty, China's ancient clothing development to the heyday of political stability, economic development, production and textile technology advances, and frequent foreign exchanges contributed to the unprecedented prosperity of the dress, clothing styles, colors, patterns, etc. have presented an unprecedented new situation, and the women's clothing during this period can be described as China's clothing in the most exciting chapter of the crown of the beauty of the gorgeous, makeup of the strange and varied, all to the eyes of the people, and the women's clothing. The beauty and splendor of the crowns and dresses, and the variety of the make-up, are all fascinating to the eye. The image of women's costumes in the more than two hundred years of the Great Tang Dynasty can be mainly divided into 襦裙服, men's clothes, and hu clothing three kinds of matching costumes. The following poems and paintings with the help of ancient books, and described.
I. 襦裙服
襦裙服系指唐代女子上穿短襦或衫,下着长裙,佩披帛,加半臂(即短袖)的传统装束。 Tang women's 襦裙装在接受外来服饰影响下,取其神而保留自我的原形,于是襦裙装成为唐代乃至整个中国服装史中最精彩而又动人的一种配套装束了。 襦, generally only up to the waist, is very short, is the characteristic of the Tang Dynasty women's clothing. The similar shirt, however, was long to the crotch or longer. The jacket and blouse of the Tang woman were the regular garments of all classes. Yuan Zhen's poem "Lotus-root silk shirt and lotus-root silk skirt", Zhang You's poem "Where to throw the mandarin ducks' embroidered belts, and who to pay for the peacock's robe", and Ouyang Jiong's poem "Red-sleeved women lead each other away". The neckline of the jacket is often changed, and there are round, square, straight and chicken heart collars for the jacket. In the Tang Dynasty, there was a bare neckline, that is, the neckline opened very low, early only in the palace concubines, kabuki dancers popular, and later even the noblewomen of the rich and powerful family to be coveted, from the Tang Tomb Door stone carving and a large number of ceramic figurines of women to see, the bare neckline popularity of the open, perhaps already all over the populace, and therefore the number of art images of bare neckline women's image is really quite a lot. Skirt, Tang Dynasty women's lower garment for the skirt. This is the form of clothing that women attached great importance to at that time. Skirt fabrics are mostly silk fabrics, but how much difference in the material, usually more than one is better. The waist of the skirt was raised to a high degree, some of which could cover the chest, and the lower body was only covered with a bustier, with a gauze shirt on the outside, so that the skin of the upper body was hidden from view. For example, Zhou Fang's "Flower Hairpin Ladies", as well as Zhou Wei's "customary bundle of robes, half exposed breasts" and other poems and paintings depicting this kind of attire, which is one of the most daring of the ancient Chinese women's clothing, enough to imagine the degree of open-mindedness at that time. Tang Dynasty skirt material, color and style are much more than the previous generation, can be described as a group of flowers, magnificent and colorful. Such as the Tang poetry involved in many skirt style: "on the fairy first CuiXia skirt", "lotus leaf skirt a color cut", "two people lifted up the hidden flower skirt"," Bamboo leaf skirt", "blue skirt", "new neon moon skirt" and so on. Tang Dynasty skirt colorful, can be as good as people, mostly deep red, apricot yellow, reddish purple, moon green, green. Especially pomegranate color popular for the longest time. Li Bai has "eyebrows deceive willow leaves, skirt jealous of pomegranate flowers." Wan Chuwu had "Eyebrows take the color of daylily, red skirt jealous of pomegranate flowers." The popularity of the pomegranate dress can be seen in the "Yanjing May Song", "The pomegranate blossoms are ready to burn in the street, and all the branches of the pomegranate are collapsing into clouds, and thousands of households can't buy enough of them, so they left their daughters to dye the red dresses." The biggest feature of the pomegranate skirt is that the skirt is high, with a short jacket on top, contrasting the width and length of the two. This kind of jacket and skirt "Tang", is the inheritance, development and improvement of the previous generation of clothing. From the overall effect, the jacket is short and the skirt is long, making the body appear slim and slender.
Two, women dressed in men's clothing
Women dressed in men's clothing in China's long-term feudal society, is a relatively rare phenomenon. The Book of Rites, "The Rules of the Interior," had stipulated that "men and women are not allowed to wear clothes." Although in fact it is not possible to be so absolute, but women wearing men's clothing, often regarded as not abide by women's morals. Before the Tang Dynasty, although there was also a small difference between men's and women's clothing during the Han and Wei Dynasties, it was not a phenomenon of women wearing men's clothing, and it was only during the Tang Dynasty, when the atmosphere was very relaxed, that women wearing men's clothing became a trend, and even then, some of the causes should be attributed to the influence of the nomadic peoples. At that time, most of the foreign costumes affecting the Central Plains were those of the horsemen. Those rugged frames, heroic attire, and sturdy horses had a penetrating influence on the Tang women's sense of dress, and created an atmosphere suitable for women to wear men's clothes. The Old Tang Book, the "Opinion and Clothing Zhi", "or with the husband's clothes, boots, shirts, and respect inside and outside the consistency of carry on" has been clearly recorded under the women dressed in men's clothing scene. The New Tang Book five lines of the record, "Gaozong tasted inside the banquet, Princess Taiping purple shirt and jade belt, soap Luo folded on the scarf, with the seven things, singing and dancing in front of the emperor.
The emperor laughed with the queen and said 'women can not be military officials, why this attire?'" Although this Princess Taiping this move some bullying, but also shows that the beginning of the Tang Dynasty has appeared women with men's tendency to dress. Women dressed in men's fashion especially in the Tang Kaiyuan, Tianbao years prevailed. The Chinese ancient and modern note, "to Tianbao years, the scholar's wife, with her husband's boots and shirt whip hat, inside and outside of one." New Tang Book Li Shi biography, "I heard that the ban on the gold bird brocade robes two, the former Xuanzong lucky hot springs and Yang Guifei clothes." It can be seen that the women imitated men's clothing, wearing men's clothing is quite common. Third, Hu clothing
The early Tang to the Tang Dynasty, the northern nomads Xiongnu, Khitan, migratory birds and the Central Plains have a lot of exchanges, coupled with the Silk Road camel caravan unceasingly, the Tang Dynasty dress has a great impact. The so-called hu people, is a Han people to the northern peoples of a derogatory term, we are here to talk about history, right to retain the name of the time. With the hu people came culture, especially hu clothing --- this contains India, Persia and many other ethnic components of the national attire, so that the Tang Dynasty women refreshing. Thus, a gale-like hu clothing fever swept through the cities of the Central Plains, especially Chang'an and Luoyang and other places for the prevalence of its ornaments are also the most exotic colors. Yuan Zhen's poem: "Since the Hu ride up smoke and dust, hair Cui Cui fishy full of Luo, women for Hu women learn Hu makeup, the trick into the Hu sound service Hu music ..... Hu sound Hu riding and Hu makeup, fifty years to be in strife." Tang Xuanzong love hu dance hu music, Yang Guifei, An Lushan are hu dance can do, Bai Juyi "Song of Long Hate" in the "Nishang Yuyi Dance" is a kind of hu dance. There were also the Hunter Dance, the Dead Branch Dance, and the Hu Spinning Dance, which had a great influence on the Han music, dance, costumes, and other artistic disciplines. The exciting scene of "concubines learning to turn around" can also be imagined. Yao Runeng's "An Lushan's Deeds" records, "In the early days of Tianbao, the noble travelers and the common people wore hu hats, while the women wore hairpins, and the system of clothes had narrow dickey-sleeves." Images of women wearing hu clothes may be found in stone carvings, line drawings, and other monuments. The more typical one is wearing a hat with a narrow sleeve, a long robe with a tight collar, long pants, and high waisted boots. Public Opinion Clothing" in the cloud, "after the Middle Ages, there are men and boots such as Xi, Qidan's clothing" when this kind of attire.
Four, the crown system
The Tang Dynasty is our country's political and economic development, cultural and artistic prosperity of the era, is the era of feudal culture brilliant. Tang unified the Wei, Jin, North and South Dynasties and Sui's chaotic division of the state, the establishment of a unified and strong country, foreign trade transactions developed, productivity has developed greatly, a longer period of time, the country and the people in peace. Especially when the Tang Dynasty became the center of economic and cultural exchanges among Asian peoples, it was the most glorious page in China's cultural history. This period of absorption of Indian and Iranian culture, and into our culture, from the murals, stone carvings, carvings, books, paintings, silk embroidery, terracotta figurines and clothing, fully embodied.
By the time of the Sui and Tang dynasties, the most obvious feature of Chinese dress was the two-track system. On big sacrificial occasions, traditional Han Chinese clothes were worn. In ordinary times, the regular dress of the Tang dynasty was the hu (i.e. Xianbei) system.
The Tang Dynasty was characterized by national unification and economic prosperity, with more open forms and more ornate costumes. Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty was characterized by the unity of skirt, shirt and cape. Among the women, the image of bare chest and bare arms appeared. In the tomb of Princess Yongtai on the east wall mural, there is a high bun, exposed chest, shoulders draped in red silk, with a yellow narrow-sleeved shirt, under the green floor-length skirt, the waist hanging red belt of the Tang Dynasty women's image, so that "the pink chest half cover suspected that the dark snow", "sitting when the sash is haunting the slender grass, line that is, the train sweeping down the plum! The story of the Tang Dynasty women is a good example of how they were able to understand the meaning of the word "slow" and "slow".
Slow beam skirt half exposed chest, and not what people can do. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status can wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai can be half-bare breasted, singers can be half-bare breasted to please the ruling class, while the women of the common people's homes are not allowed to half-bare breasted. At the time, the half-breasted dresses of the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern Western night gowns, except that they were not allowed to show their shoulders and backs.
The collars of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were round, square, slant, straight and chicken heart. The short jacket and long skirt were characterized by the skirt waist tied higher, usually above the waist, some even tied under the armpits, giving a sense of playfulness and slenderness.
"The robes are heavily embroidered with leaves and leaves, and the gold phoenix and silver goose each have a hint of the same." "Eyebrows to capture the color of daylilies, red skirt jealous kill pomegranate flowers". Tang Dynasty skirt colorful, red, purple, yellow, green fight, especially red skirt for a pretty one. Popular red dress on the street, not the patent of modern people, as early as in the Tang Dynasty, has been all over the pomegranate dye dance skirt.
Perhaps by the yin and yang five elements, Yang Guifei favorite yellow skirt, that is a status symbol.
The "slow bunch of skirt half exposed chest", from one side reflects the degree of social open-mindedness at that time.
Social ideology formed on the basis of a certain economic foundation. It is an important factor that affects social customs and clothing. Clothing is a barometer of the socio-political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of Chinese feudal society, especially during the Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, the political climate was relaxed, and people lived and worked in peace and happiness. Chang'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the political, economic and cultural center of the time, as well as the center of East-West cultural exchanges. In the ancient city of Xi'an, the morning bells of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke of the Cao Tang Hall, the wind and snow of the Ba Willow, the evening sunshine of Mount Li, the immortal palms of the Huayue Mountains, and the stone carvings of the Forest of Stelae seem to still linger on with the sound of the flourishing Tang Dynasty. There were more than three hundred countries that had friendly exchanges with the Tang government. The splendid Chinese culture was spread to all over the world through them. To this day, some countries in East Asia still wear Tang Dynasty costumes as their official dresses, which shows the long-lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang'an and sowed the seeds of their culture in the 800-mile Qin River. The arts of painting, sculpture, music and dance of the Tang Dynasty attracted foreign techniques and styles. The eclecticism of exotic clothes and costumes made the wonders of Tang costumes bloom more brightly and colorfully.
Because of the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, the western regions, Tubo's costumes, and thus the "Hunde Hat", "the world's makeup" to be popular. This is the third big change in the history of ancient Chinese dress. With the first two big changes in dress is different, this time the dress of the big exchanges from the north and south to the east-west direction flow.
The crown and costume system was a symbol of the power hierarchy in feudal society, and Confucianism, as the spiritual pillar of the ruling class in feudal society, regarded the adherence to the ancestral laws as the foundation of loyalty and filial piety, and emphasized that the system of clothes and crowns had to follow the ancient laws, especially the ceremonial clothes and court clothes as the big dress, which could not abandon the legacy of the late king, and was thus called the legal dress; it had a great deal of conservatism and closedness. The daily wear of the court was called the regular dress, which was characterized by the era. Tang Emperor Li Yuan (618 to 636 AD) promulgated new laws and decrees in the seventh year of Wude (624 AD), the famous "Wude Decree", which included laws and decrees on clothes, including the clothes of the Son of Heaven, 14, the clothes of the Empress, three, the clothes of the Crown Prince, six, the clothes of the Crown Princess, three, the clothes of the ministers, 22, and the clothes of the women, six. The content of the basic inheritance of the old system of the Sui dynasty, the son of 14 kinds of clothing for the big fur coronet, gun coronet, phasianus coronet, cui liu coronet, linen coronet, xuan coronet, through the sky crown, velvet crown, WuBen, BenSu, black conical cap, white cap, flat scarf conical cap, white chai. The six costumes of the Crown Prince are the Coronet, the Crown of Far Traveling, the public dress, the black hat, the bent suit, and the flat conical cap. Qunchen's 22 kinds of clothing have gun coronation, phasianus coronation, cuiui coronation, linen coronation, xuan coronation, flat coronation, jucheng coronation, wu-ben, ben suit, Jinxian Crown, far travel crown, the law crown (Xiezhi Crown), alpine crown (side note coronation), the commission appearance of the crown (and the same system of the leather bib), but the non-crown, the flat scarf conical cap, the black conical cap, the conical cap, flat scarf conical hat, with the clothes (court dress), from the province of clothing (public service), the wedding clothes; the empress's three kinds of clothing have the queen's ceremonial gowns, bow dress, tin hairpin unadorned clothing; The three types of clothing for the Crown Princess are the guanzhai, jiuyi, and tin hairpin ceremonial clothing. The six kinds of garments for the Imperial Wife are Zhai, Tin Hairpin Ceremonial Clothes, Ceremonial Clothes, Public Clothes, Half-sleeve Skirt 襦, and Flower Hairpin Ceremonial Clothes. Above all kinds of clothing supporting the way and taking the object and taking occasions, "the Tang book - car clothing Chi" have detailed instructions. Where from the sacrificial service and participate in major political activities of the court dress (also known as with clothing), the system is basically the same as the Sui Dynasty, but the form of the Sui Dynasty than the more opulent and beautiful. General occasions worn by the public service (also known as from the provincial clothes) and usually live in the life of the clothing clothing (also known as Yan clothes), is absorbed since the North and South Dynasties in the region of China has been popular in the Hu clothing, especially the Northwest Xianbei ethnic clothing and Central Asia region of the country's clothing some of the components of the combination of traditional Chinese clothing, creating a new form of clothing with the characteristics of the Tang Dynasty. Among them, the lack of crotch robe, 〓 crotch, half-arm, 〓 clothes, big mouth pants and so on are examples. The qingtang robe was a straight-train robe with left and right slits, also known as the four 〓 (四〓)shirt, which could be paired with a turban, a leather belt, and long leg boots, and became the main form of clothing for men in the Tang Dynasty. Tang dynasty official clothes developed the traditional form of ancient deep clothing system, in the collar, cuffs, train edge plus paste edge, clothes front and back are straight cut, in the front and back of the lower edge of the placket each with a whole piece of cloth connected to the cross into the horizontal 襕, the waist with a leather belt tightly bundled, the sleeves are divided into straight sleeve type and wide sleeve type two kinds of narrow and tight straight sleeve is called the 〓 clothes, the "interpretation of the name," it "said the sleeve clip straight, the shape of the ditch is also. This style facilitated movement. This style is easy to move around. Wide-sleeved style with a large train can show the dashing and luxurious style, called round-necked shirts and robes, which can be worn by emperors from the top down to the bottom of the servant. The turban, round collar, leather belt, and long leg boots supporting the clothing style, has been handed down to the Ming Dynasty.
The Tang Dynasty crown system in the Wudeling after the implementation of the order, but also in the continuous modification and improvement, which inherited the Zhou and Han traditions, from the clothing package, clothing materials, ornamentation and color to form a complete series of later generations of crowns also had a far-reaching impact.
Before the Tang Dynasty, the yellow color could be used as a uniform, for example, the soldiers of the Sui Dynasty served in yellow. Tang Dynasty that red and yellow is similar to the color of the sun, the day is a symbol of the emperor's dignity, "two suns in heaven, two kings in the country." Therefore, the red and yellow (ochre), except for the emperor, the subjects shall not be unauthorized to use. The ochre yellow color was specified as the color for the emperor's regular clothes. Tang Gaozong Li Zhi (650 to 683 A.D.) at the beginning of the flow of foreign officials and the common people can wear general yellow (such as color light cold lemon yellow, etc.), to the Tang Gaozong in the middle of the General Chapter of the first year (668 A.D.), fear of yellow and ochre yellow mixed, the officials and the people are forbidden to wear yellow. Since then yellow has been a symbol of the emperor.
Tang Gaozu had stipulated that the ministers of the common dress, Prince to the third grade with purple Dako (large group of flowers) made of damask, belt with jade belt hooks. Above the fifth grade with vermilion small section (small group of flowers) made of damask, belt with grass gold hooks. The sixth grade is made of yellow (lemon yellow) double-kushiki (geometric pattern) damask, and the belt is made with rhinoceros hooks. The seventh grade is made of green tortoise shell, double giant, and ten flowers (all geometric patterns) damask, and the belt is a silver quill (ring buckle) The ninth grade is made of green silk cloth and mixed damask, and the belt is made of a Yu Shi belt hook. Tang Taizong Li Shimin (A.D. 627 to 649 years) period, the four sides of the calm, the country prospered, he proposed to lay down the military to repair the culture, advocate the rule of civilization, give the ministers into the virtue of the crown, the color of the permanent clothing of the hundred officials and made a more detailed provisions. According to the "New Tang Dynasty Book - vehicle clothing Zhi" recorded, more than three products robes and shirts purple, bundles of gold and jade belt, thirteen 銙 (mounted on the belt hanging 鞢 〓 belt belt with both decorative effect). The fourth-grade robes were deep scarlet, with eleven gold belts. The fifth-grade robe was light scarlet, with a gold belt of ten pieces. Sixth-grade robe dark green, silver belt nine. Seventh-grade robe light green, silver belt nine. The eighth-grade robes were dark green, the ninth-grade robes were light green, and the jade stone belt was eight quills. Stream of foreign officials and the common people's clothing yellow, copper and iron belt seven quintals (General Chapter of the first year and prohibit the stream of foreign officials and the common people's clothing yellow, have seen above). Tang Emperor Longshuo two years (A.D. 662) for fear of eight robes and clothing dark green messy purple (ancient indigo with multiple dipping and dyeing of dark green red light, so I'm afraid of mixing with purple), changed to turquoise. Since the Spring and Autumn Period, Duke Huan of Qi (685 BC to 643 years before the reign of) wearing purple robes to start, to determine the purple for the top of the clothing color pattern, to the Song and Yuan has not changed. To the Ming Dynasty was replaced by red. The New Tang Book - Che clothing records civil official dress pattern, there are luan long ribbon, crane with ganoderma lucidum, magpies, geese, geese, waiyi, Jun migratory birds, flowers, yellow cross-branching and other names.
The Tang government prescribed clothing color system, in fact, in real life can not be completely implemented. Tang Gaozong Xianheng five years (i.e., the first year of the first year, A.D. 674) in May, because outside the officials and people in the robe within the shirt, wear Zhu, purple, green, green and other colors of short shirts and jackets, or in the countryside openly wear these colors of robes and shirts, so it was again issued a ban.
Tang Dynasty military officer's uniform color, the provisions of the martial arts above the third grade, left and right Wuwei Wei decorated with tiger, left and right Panther Towers Wei decorated panther, left and right Eagle Yang Wei decorated with eagle, left and right Jade Inscription Wei decorated with migratory birds, left and right Jingwu Wei decorated with豸. The kings were decorated with dragons and deer, the prime ministers were decorated with phoenix ponds, and the ministers were decorated with geese. After the provisions of a thousand cattle guards decorated Rui Niu, around the guards decorated Rui Horse, primrose guards decorated tiger, martial arts guards decorated eagle, Wei Wei decorated leopard, leading guards decorated white Ze, Jingwu guards decorated evil spirits, supervisory guards decorated lions. Tang Taihe six years and allow three or more service falcon with Ruigao, geese with ribbons and peacocks on the damask jacket. This kind of decoration are embroidered, according to the Tang dynasty clothing style, generally should be embroidered on the back of the chest or shoulder sleeve parts.
Tang galloped on the battlefield are people wearing armor not equipped with light cavalry, infantry armor accounted for 60% of the number of infantry, "Tang six canon" recorded Tang armor has 13 kinds, namely, light armor, light armor, fine scale armor, mountain armor, hammer armor, white cloth armor, soapy silk armor, cloth-backed armor, infantry armor, leather armor, wood armor, locking son of the armor, armor.
Lock armor that Cao Zhi table said the ring lock armor, "Jin Shu - Lv Guang biography" records the pre-Qin Lv Guang in the attack on the city of Guzi see the Western armies armor such as a chain, the shot can not be entered, the Sui and Tang dynasties in the Western region of the Kang country to the Chinese court tribute to this armor. The Tang dynasty will be divided into three types of such armor, according to the size of the tall and short to the use of warriors. The Six Classics of the Tang Dynasty (《唐六典》武库令中) recorded the types of bows, swords, and armor, while the shield was renamed as pang platoon, counting six types, namely, rattan platoon, doughnut platoon, lacquer platoon, wooden platoon, joint wooden platoon, and leather platoon. It is noted that rattan, group, lacquer and wood are all ancient systems. Fifth, the Tang Dynasty big-sleeved shirt
Tang Dynasty is also popular among women to wear "Hu clothing." Hu clothing" is the clothing of the West. Belt form is also y influenced by the hu clothing. Before this, people's waist is decorated with gold, silver, copper and iron, this time the popular tie "mincing belt", with gold ornaments on the belt, and buckle with a short and small small belt to tie things with. This belt to take the most prevalent is in the Tang Dynasty, and then extended until the Northern Song Dynasty.
After the Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, the style of women's clothing is becoming wider and wider. In the late Tang Dynasty, this feature is more obvious, general women's clothing, sleeve width is often more than four feet. In the late Tang aristocratic dress, generally more important occasions to wear, wearing this dress, hairpin with gold and cui flower inlay, so also known as "inlay hairpin ceremonial clothing".
After Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty, the purple color for the three officials; light scarlet for the five officials, dark green for the six officials, light green for the seven officials, dark green for the eight officials, light green for the nine officials, yellow for the people outside of the palace and the people's clothing color.
Tang also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, Japan and obedience to the color greatly absorbed the essence of the Tang costume, Korean clothes also inherited from the form of the strengths of the Tang costume. Tang jacket 襦skirt line soft long, very beautiful and comfortable, the material is mainly silk fabric, so its clothing to "soft" and "soft" known. Tang clothing itself more categories, good changes, from the shape to the decoration are boldly absorbed foreign dress characteristics, more to Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia and the north and the western region of the foreign dress as a reference to enrich the Tang dress culture, so that the Tang dress colorful and opulent, unique and bizarre styles, become a Chinese historical dress in a flower, the world attention.
Tang Dynasty dress pattern, changed the previous kind of creative ideas with the gift of God, with real flowers, grass, fish, insects for sketching, but the traditional dragon, phoenix pattern has not been excluded, which is also determined by the influence of the imperial power of divine authorization. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express the artistic style of freedom, plumpness and fatness.
The dress pattern of the late Tang Dynasty was more exquisite and beautiful. Flower and bird dress pattern, border pattern, group flower dress pattern in the silk gauze on the soft clothing, it is really flowery, compete with each other. As the five generations of Wang Jian said: "Luo shirt leaf leaves embroidered heavy, gold phoenix silver goose each a bush, every dance time two directions, peace long live the word in the middle." Today, we see these gorgeous and beautiful dress patterns, is the painters in the Dunhuang Grottoes with hard labor for future generations to preserve the precious image of the information. The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty is the overall development, this time the design of clothing pattern tends to express the freedom, fullness, flamboyance, rounded, in the shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, make-up, jewelry performance, all illustrate this feature.
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of the Zhou Dynasty's dress pattern design, the stretching of the Warring States Period, the brightness of the Han Dynasty, and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties into one, and on the basis of which it became more flamboyant, so that the costumes and dress patterns reached the peak of the history; the Tang Dynasty's influence on the future generations of the dresses and dress patterns has been continued to the present day. The use of twining branch pattern in modern dress pattern demonstrates the implication of the combination of traditional pattern and modern aesthetic consciousness. Sixth, summary
The reason why the Tang Dynasty costumes are colorful, there are many factors, first of all, the foundation was laid in the Sui Dynasty. The reign of the Sui Dynasty was short, but the silk weaving industry had a long development. Literature recorded in sui emperor yang "full of crowns and costumes to decorate its treachery", he not only made the concubines with gorgeous clothes, even when traveling to the canal boat fiber rope are passed for the silk system, the trees on both sides of the green silk decorated with willow, to color silk tie its flowers, enough to see the silk production of the amazing. To the Tang Dynasty, silk fabric production throughout the country, regardless of production, quality are more than the previous generation, thus providing a solid material basis for the Tang Dynasty dress novelty and richness. Coupled with the extensive contacts with the peoples of various countries and ethnic groups, the culture of various countries to take a wide range of attitudes, so that the national costume with the integration, and thus was able to introduce countless novelty and wonderful crown. Tang Dynasty costumes, especially women's attire, not only for the people at the time revered, and even today people watching the Tang Dynasty costumes, but also feel excited. There is no pretense here, and there is no twisted and reserved posture. Showed in front of people, is full of vitality, exciting and mesmerizing costumes. Its color is not a rich and colorful not to take, a variety of bright colors compete, not willing to sparse lonely, plus gold and silver miscellaneous, the more apparent dazzle people's eyes. Its decorative motifs, all birds and beasts into pairs, flowers, auspicious light, interesting, can be described as a faction of the great Tang Dynasty scene.
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