What do you need to master if you want to be familiar with all kinds of clothing fabrics and understand their knowledge?

Clothing is composed of three elements: style, color and material. Among them, material is the most basic element. Clothing materials refer to all the materials that make up clothing, which can be divided into clothing fabrics and clothing accessories. Here, I mainly introduce some knowledge of clothing fabrics to you.

First, the concept of clothing fabric: refers to the material that reflects the main characteristics of clothing.

Second, common clothing fabrics

1) cotton fabric: refers to the fabric woven with cotton yarn or blended yarn of cotton and cotton chemical fiber. With good air permeability, good hygroscopicity and comfortable wearing, it is a popular fabric with strong practicability. It can be divided into two categories: pure cotton products and cotton blending.

2) Hemp fabric: pure hemp fabric woven from hemp fiber and fabric blended or interwoven with hemp and other fibers are collectively called hemp fabric. Hemp fabric also has the characteristics of hard and tough texture, rough and crisp, cool and comfortable, and good hygroscopicity. Hemp fabrics can be divided into pure spinning and blended fabrics.

3) Silk: It is a high-grade variety in textiles. Mainly refers to the fabric with mulberry silk, tussah silk, rayon and synthetic fiber filaments as the main raw materials. It has the advantages of being thin, light, soft, smooth, elegant, gorgeous and comfortable.

Wool fabric: it is a fabric made of wool, rabbit hair, camel hair and wool-type chemical fiber as the main raw materials. Generally speaking, it is a high-grade clothing fabric all year round, which has the advantages of good elasticity, wrinkle resistance, stiffness, wear resistance, strong warmth retention, comfort and beauty, pure color and so on, and is well received by consumers.

5) Pure chemical fiber fabric: chemical fiber fabric has high fastness, good elasticity, stiffness, wear resistance and washing resistance, and is easy to store and collect, and is deeply loved by people. Pure chemical fiber fabric is a fabric woven from pure chemical fibers. Its characteristics are determined by the characteristics of its chemical fiber itself. Chemical fibers can be processed into a certain length according to different needs, and woven into silk-like, cotton-like, hemp-like, elastic wool-like and medium-long wool-like fabrics according to different processes.

6) Other clothing fabrics

1. Knitted garment fabric: It is made of one or several yarns that are continuously bent into loops along the weft or warp direction and nested with each other.

2, fur: English pelliccia, leather with fur, generally used for winter boots, shoes or shoe mouth decoration.

3. Leather: all kinds of tanned animal skins. The purpose of tanning is to prevent the skin from getting worse. The skins of some small animals, reptiles, fish and birds are called "skins" in English, but in Italy or other countries, "Pelle" and its consent words are often used to represent this kind of leather.

4. New fabrics and special fabrics: batik, tie-dyeing, space cotton, etc.

Third, the identification of common clothing fabrics

1) sensory method

1, pure cotton cloth: the cloth surface is soft in luster, soft to the touch, poor in elasticity and easy to wrinkle. When you pinch the cloth by hand, you can see obvious wrinkles after loosening it, and the wrinkles are not easy to recover. Several warp and weft yarns are pulled from the edge of the cloth and twisted together, and the fibers are of different lengths.

2. Viscose cotton cloth (including artificial cotton and fiber-rich cloth): the cloth surface is soft and bright, bright in color, flat and smooth, soft to the touch and poor in elasticity. When you pinch the cloth by hand, you can see obvious creases after loosening it, and the creases are not easy to recover.

3. Polyester cotton cloth: the luster is brighter than pure cotton cloth, the cloth surface is flat, clean and free of yarn ends and impurities. It feels smooth and brittle, and its elasticity is better than that of pure cotton. Loosen the cloth by hand, the crease is not obvious, and it is easy to recover.

4. Pure wool worsted fabric: the surface of the fabric is smooth and smooth, and the texture is delicate and clear. Soft and natural luster, pure color. Soft and elastic. Pinch tweed by hand to make it loose, the crease is not obvious, and it can be restored to its original state quickly. Most yarns are double-stranded.

5, pure wool woolen cloth: full surface, tight and thick texture. There are fine hairs on the surface, and the texture is generally not exposed. Feel warm, plump and elastic. Most of the yarns are coarse count single yarns.

6. Wool-polyester blended woolen fabric: the appearance is pure wool fabric style. Tweed is clear, flat and smooth, not as soft as pure wool fabric, but has a stiff and rough feeling, and its elasticity is higher than that of all wool and wool-bonded wool fabric. Tighten tweed by hand, loosen it, and the crease will soon return to its original state.

7. Wool-wool blended woolen cloth: mostly worsted. Strong wool feeling, wool style and strong warmth retention. Elasticity is not as good as wool polyester.

8. Wool-nylon blended woolen fabric: The woolen fabric has a smooth surface, a strong wool feeling, a waxy appearance and a stiff hand feel. Loosen the woolen cloth by hand, there are obvious creases, which can be slowly restored to its original state.

9. Silk: Silk has smooth and clean surface, soft luster and bright and pure color. Feel smooth, soft, light and elegant. When the silk surface is dry, there is a pulling feeling when touched by hand, and there is a "silk sound" when it is torn.

10. Viscose silk fabric (rayon): the silk surface is bright but not soft, the color is bright, the hand feels smooth and soft, and the drape is strong, but it is not as light and elegant as real silk. Loosen the silk surface by hand, there are creases and the recovery is slow. My voice is hoarse when I pull it. After the warp and weft are wet with water, they are easy to break.

2) combustion identification method

List of combustion characteristics of several common fibers;

cotton

Close to the flame, it will not shrink or melt. Contact with the flame, burning rapidly, the flame is orange with blue smoke. Leave the flame and continue to burn. Burning paper has less ash and is linear. Gray powder is soft and light gray, and it is easy to be pulverized by hand.

dead

Same as above, less ash, light gray, or grayish white, easy to powder manually.

silk

Close to the flame, it will curl and not melt. Contact the flame and burn slowly. Leave the flame and put it out yourself. The flame is orange and very small. Small dark brown ball with burning feathers or hair, which is easy to powder when touched by hand.

Fine soft hair or feathers.

Close to the flame, it will curl and not melt. Contact with flames, burning smoke and bubbles. Leave the flame and continue to burn. Sometimes it goes out by itself and the flame is orange. Burning feathers or hair have a lot of fragrant ashes, forming shiny amorphous black blocks, which are easy to turn into ashes when touched by hands.

mucilage glue

Close to the flame, it burns quickly, and the smell of orange flame burning paper is less gray, dark gray or light gray.

dacron

Close to the flame, contract first and then melt. Contact with flame, melting and burning. Leave the flame and continue to burn. The flame is yellowish white and bright, with linear black smoke at the top. Special fragrance, dark brown amorphous block or small ball, which can be crushed with fingers.

Clothing fabric assembly

Fiber classification

Plant fiber: cotton and hemp.

Animal fiber: silk, wool.

Man-made fiber (recycled): viscose fiber, soybean fiber, glass fiber and metal fiber.

Synthetic fiber: polyester, nylon, nitrile, vitamins, acrylic acid, ammonia, chlorine (nylon).

Classification of yarns:

Pure cotton yarn: carded/semi-combed/combed (high uniformity, high strength and easy coloring)

Chemical fiber yarn: polyester, nitrile, viscose and chlorine fiber yarn.

Blended yarn: polyester cotton, polyester cotton, polyester cotton

Multi-ply yarn: a yarn made by twisting more than two yarns.

Filament: monofilament and multifilament.

Textured yarn: high elastic nylon yarn, low elastic polyester yarn, acrylic bulky yarn.

Fancy yarn: slub yarn, small spiral pattern, seersucker yarn, magic color yarn.

Fabric classification

-According to the classification of raw materials used in yarns.

Pure textile fabric

The warp and weft of the fabric are composed of a single raw material. Such as cotton fabric, linen fabric, silk fabric and wool fabric woven with natural fibers. It also includes pure chemical fiber fabrics made of rayon, polyester and acrylic fibers. Its main feature is that it embodies the basic properties of its constituent fibers.

Blended fabric

A fabric made by blending two or more fibers with the same or different chemical composition into yarns. The main feature of blended fabric is to reflect the superior performance of various fibers in raw materials, thus improving the wearability of fabric and expanding the applicability of its clothing. Varieties are: linen/cotton, wool/cotton, wool/linen/silk, wool/polyester, polyester/cotton and so on.

Naming principle: the one with large mixing ratio comes first, and the one with small mixing ratio comes last; The blending ratio is the same, natural fiber is in the front, synthetic fiber is in the back, and artificial fiber is in the back.

mixed fabric

The warp and weft of the fabric are made of different materials, or a group of warp and weft are filament yarns and a group of staple yarns, and they are intertwined. The basic properties of interwoven fabrics are determined by different kinds of yarns, and generally have different characteristics in warp and weft directions. Its varieties include silk wool interweaving, silk cotton interweaving and so on.

-Processing according to the method of forming fabric.

textile

Refers to the fabric made of warp and weft by shuttle weaving or shuttleless weaving. The most important feature is that fabrics are divided into warp and weft. When the warp and weft raw materials, yarn count and density in the fabric are different, the fabric presents anisotropy.

knitted fabric

Refers to the fabric made of one or a group of yarns and processed into loops by warp and weft knitting machines or warp knitting machines. According to the processing method, it can be divided into single-side weft (warp) knitted fabric and double-side weft (warp) knitted fabric.

nonwoven fabrics

It refers to textiles made directly from fiber layers by bonding, fusing or other methods without going through the traditional textile processing.

Woven cotton fabric

-Classification

According to fabric organization: plain cloth, twill cloth and satin cloth.

According to printing and dyeing finishing, it can be divided into bleached cotton, dyed cotton and printed cotton.

-Performance characteristics

Strong hygroscopicity, good dyeing performance, shrinkage rate of about 3%; (The company's clothes are all treated with washing water, and the shrinkage rate is within 1%)

Excellent comfort, soft luster and durability;

Good hand feeling, poor elasticity and easy wrinkling;

Alkali resistance and acid resistance;

Light resistance and heat resistance are average;

It is not easy to be eaten by insects, but it is easy to be corroded and moldy by microorganisms.

-Style characteristics

plain cloth

The basic feature of plain weave is that it adopts plain weave, and there are many yarn interweaving points in the fabric, which makes the fabric stiff and firm. Compared with other fabrics of the same specification, plain weave has better wear resistance, high strength, smooth surface and consistent front and back.

twills

Various twill weaves are used to make diagonal lines consisting of warp or weft floating lines appear on the fabric surface.

Denim is a kind of low-grade twill with medium thickness. There are two kinds (20-40 tablets): thick and thin. They all adopt 2/ 1 left twill weave, which is slightly thicker and softer than plain cloth and has clear front lines.

Khaki high-density fabric woven with 3/ 1 right diagonal or left diagonal. The handle is solid and the fabric has a good luster.

Bright satin tweed

Various satin weaves are adopted, and the warp or weft has long floating lines covering the fabric surface, which is smooth and smooth along the floating line direction.

Smooth cotton satin is soft, delicate and elastic. Patterns are more stereoscopic than cotton twill fabrics.

Other textile fabrics

Honeycomb fabric, with long warp and weft, presents a three-dimensional effect of diamond geometry on the cloth surface, which is soft in texture, good in water absorption and rich in softness, and easy to run when wearing.

Corduroy is a kind of weft pile cotton fabric, which is interwoven by a set of warp yarns and two sets of weft yarns. The ground weft yarns interweave with the warp yarns to form consolidated plush, and the wool yarns interweave with the warp yarns to cover the cloth surface, and are arranged to form various velvet strips with different thicknesses.

Wick-plain weave, twill weave and plain weave variation are combined in a certain way, so that the fabric appearance has warp, weft or oblique rib effect, the rib surface presents plain weave or twill weave, and there are fine grooves between ribs.

Velvet cotton grey cloth is brushed to form fluffy fabric on the fabric surface. Because of the fluff, this kind of flannel increases the air and enhances the warmth. Therefore, flannel is often used as underwear or baby clothes, which makes people feel soft, thick and comfortable. Velvet can be divided into single-sided velvet and double-sided velvet.

Knitted cotton fabric

The main difference between woven fabric and knitted fabric is that woven fabric is made of warp and weft yarns interwoven vertically, while knitted fabric is made up of a group of yarns formed by knitting needles and other knitting machines, similar to our knitting.

-Performance characteristics

soft feel

Greater ductility and elasticity

Good air permeability and wrinkle resistance

Easy to fall off, curl and snag, not as durable as woven fabrics.

-Common varieties

Plain weave-continuous unit coils are connected in series in one direction. It has detachability, serious curling and easy warping.

The outer side of the rib has greater elasticity and ductility. Not easy to fall off, not curly, good dimensional stability. French rib system is double-sided rib, which has small transverse elastic ductility and poor dimensional stability.

Knitting Jacquard-Change the yarn thickness, quantity and color to form a fabric pattern.

Chemical fiber fabric

-Rayon fabric

Rayon fabric basically refers to viscose filament and staple fabric, which is called rayon, rayon and viscose blended fabric.

trait

Chemical fiber has the best hygroscopicity, better wearing comfort and dyeability than synthetic fiber fabric, but the shrinkage rate is larger.

Soft to the touch, bright in color and breathable and comfortable;

Good drape, poor stiffness, resilience and wrinkle resistance, poor shape retention and easy wrinkling;

Good acid and alkali resistance and light resistance.

-Polyester fabric

It has high strength and elastic recovery ability. Durable, iron-free, easy to wash and dry. But the hygroscopicity is poor, it is sultry when wearing, and it is easy to produce static electricity and dust pollution. Good acid and alkali resistance, good light resistance, not afraid of mold and moth.

-acrylic fiber

It has the reputation of synthetic wool, and its elasticity and bulkiness are comparable to those of natural wool, with bright colors. Not only is it crease-resistant but also has good warmth retention, which is about 15% higher than similar wool fabrics. Light and heat resistance, light weight, but poor hygroscopicity, feeling stuffy when wearing.

-spandex stretch fabric

Spandex is a kind of polyurethane fiber, which is also called elastic fiber because of its excellent elasticity. 100% polyurethane is not used in general products, and 5%-30% polyurethane is mixed in fabrics. Similar products with appearance style, moisture absorption and air permeability close to cotton, wool, silk, hemp and other natural fibers are suitable for tights.

fiber identification

Combustion method is a simple and commonly used method to identify fibers. It uses different combustion characteristics of various fibers to identify fiber types. But it is only applicable to pure textiles and interwoven products. Not suitable for blended new products, core-spun yarn products and products after fire protection finishing.

Cotton: it burns rapidly in the flame, releasing gray smoke;

Hemp: burning rapidly in the flame, releasing white smoke;

Hair: it burns gradually, smells like hair, and has crisp black ash after burning;

Polyester: first melted and then burned, and after burning, there are glassy dark brown hard balls;

Viscose: low strength, hard after entering water.

Characteristic contrast

Fading: cotton > blended > chemical fiber;

Easily deformed: knitting > knitting;

Pilling: cotton fabric blending > chemical fiber;

Anti-wrinkle: cotton