China traditional art clothes

There are two basic forms of traditional clothing, namely, upper garment system and garment system. According to legend, the system of coat under coat originated from the legendary era of the Yellow Emperor. Under the copula of "Yi", it says: "The Yellow Emperor and Yao Shun hang down their clothes and rule the world, covering all the dry Kun." This legend can be confirmed in the pottery paintings of painted pottery culture unearthed in Gansu. This can be said to be the basic form of the earliest clothing system in China. According to Shi Ming Shi Fu, the clothing system under the coat reads: "Anyone who wears Japanese clothing. Clothes, rely on it, people rely on it to avoid cold and heat. Jean. The dress is also an obstacle, so it is self-enclosed. " The shape of the coat is mostly cross collar and right collar, and the lower skirt is similar to the shape of an apron, with a waist tie and a lower tie. This dress system has a great influence on later generations.

Even clothes, called deep clothes in ancient times, were founded in the Zhou Dynasty. "The Book of Rites Deep Clothes" notes: "Those who are named deep clothes are clean clothes." Deep clothes are similar in structure to contemporary dresses. The hem of the coat is sewn at the waist, and the collar, sleeves and hem are made of other fabrics or embroidered edges. The shape of deep clothing influenced the clothing of later generations, which was used as a dress by Ming women in Han dynasty, and also adopted this form of clothing attachment in ancient robes and shirts. Even today's dresses are the evolution of the deep clothing system. Huaxia Costume in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties

Although some archaeological data have been found in the costume patterns of primitive times, there are too few materials to explain the costumes of that period in detail. During the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, the costumes of Chinese people in the Central Plains were a coat with a skirt and a right shirt. The stone statue of slave owner unearthed in Anyang, Henan Province, wears a flat hat, a right collar, a skirt, a big belt around the waist, leggings and pointed shoes. This roughly reflects the situation of Shang Dynasty costumes. In the early Zhou Dynasty, the system of rites and music made detailed provisions on the system of crown clothing for nobles and civilians, and the rulers showed their dignity and majesty with strict grade clothing. Deep clothing and coronation clothing began in the Zhou Dynasty, which had a far-reaching impact on later generations.

The appearance of Khufu in the Spring and Autumn Period

The most important changes in costumes during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period were the popularity of deep clothes and the appearance of Hu clothes. The war in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period promoted the reform of Dai Bo to take off his coat, long skirt and robe. King Wuling of Zhao broke through the resistance for the fighting capacity of the army, ordered the whole country to wear nomadic shorts and trousers, learned to ride and shoot, and finally made Zhao strong. This was the first clothing reform in China's history, and Khufu became very popular from then on. Along with Khufu, there is a hook to end the belt. Because it is more convenient than tying a belt, it quickly became popular.

Related knowledge: "Hu" is a vague term. In different historical periods, it sometimes refers to Xiongnu, sometimes refers to nomadic people from northeast to northwest, and sometimes it is even broader. So Hu Fu refers to the costumes of nomadic people in northern China. They wear narrow-sleeved jackets, trousers and boots to meet the needs of nomadic riding. Shen Kuo said: "China has been wearing Hu clothes since the Northern Qi Dynasty." The word "du" may be a bit excessive, but Khufu did have a great influence on the development of Han costumes.

The Establishment of Traditional Crown Clothing System in Han Dynasty

Deep clothing was still very popular in the Han Dynasty, which was the period when the traditional crown clothing system was established. Pants in the Han dynasty were crotch-opening, and pants were called crotch in ancient times. Said: "Yi, faithfulness also." "Interpretation of Names and Clothes": "If you pay, you will pay two shares." It can be seen that the crotch was open at that time, and the outer cover was a petticoat or a deep coat. Although full crotch pants appeared later, open crotch pants still existed for a long time.

The popularity of Khufu in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties

Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties is another great transformation period in the ancient costume history of China. With a large number of ethnic minorities entering the Central Plains, Hu Fu has become a common dress in society, and the clothes of ordinary people are most strongly influenced by Hu Fu. They absorbed the tight sleeves, round neck, split and other factors in Hu clothing into the original clothing. On the basis of Khufu, the Han nobles also lengthened it, added cuffs and pants, and changed the left leg into the right leg. But this kind of clothing is still the traditional form of Han nationality clothing.

Sui and Tang Dynasties —— The Transformation Period of Clothing

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, due to the political and economic stability and prosperity, it was able to inherit the origin of historical costumes and enlighten the clothing system of later generations. Therefore, this period has become an important historical period for the development of ancient Chinese clothing system. Men's uniforms are hoes, robes and boots. However, the gown at this time is slightly different from the previous dynasty, with round neck, right collar, narrow sleeves and no collar edge. In addition, there are robes, crotch-less robes and other styles. This kind of dress was mainly influenced by Khufu and combined with the living habits and etiquette characteristics of the Han nationality, which formed the dress style of this period.

Clothing in Song Dynasty tends to be conservative.

The costumes in Song Dynasty generally followed the Tang system, but they were different in style and name. There are two styles of short crotch robes in Song Dynasty: wide sleeves and tight sleeves. The habit of wearing a coat and a half arm is extremely common, but neither can be worn as a dress. Generally speaking, the costumes in Song Dynasty were more formal and conservative, and the colors were not as bright as before, giving people a simple, clean and elegant feeling, which was closely related to the social situation at that time, especially the influence of Zhu Cheng Neo-Confucianism.

Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties

The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties not only followed the formal dress system of the Han nationality, but also had their own national characteristics. The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties have a common feature, which not only follows the costume system of Han, Tang and Song dynasties, but also has national characteristics. Men's clothing in Liao and Jin dynasties is mostly round neck, short crotch robe with sleeves, boots or pointed boots, trousers and waist belt. Men's wear in the Yuan Dynasty included Han people's round neck, collar robe and their grandson's clothes, which were similar in shape to deep clothes and short skirts with narrow sleeves, reaching to the knees, with numerous pleats at the waist, like today's pleated skirts with horizontal pleats at the waist. Collar types include right-handed collar, square collar and disc collar. Wear pants with small mouths and sewing boots on your feet. The main colors are white, blue and ochre. In addition, great changes have taken place in the materials of clothing in the Yuan Dynasty. Due to the extensive planting of cotton, cotton cloth has become the main variety of clothing materials.

Ming and Qing dynasties

The clothing of Ming dynasty inherited the previous generation, and the clothing of Qing dynasty had a great influence on modern times because it was close to the present.

Ming dynasty clothing generally followed the Tang system, but it also retained some styles of Song and Yuan dynasties. Clothing in Qing dynasty had a great influence on modern clothing forms. Because the rulers of the Qing Dynasty have always implemented the policy of "shaving hair and changing clothes", men's clothing has changed greatly, which can be divided into two types: Manchu national clothing; Foreign clothes The style of robes in Qing Dynasty is the representative of Manchu costumes. Generally, sleeves are narrow and thin, and dresses are arrow sleeves, also called horseshoe sleeves. The robe is buttoned. Right hand, round neck. The robes of the royal family have four openings, front, back, left and right, while ordinary men can only open the air left and right. Mandarin jacket is a unique costume in Qing Dynasty. Its styles are mostly round neck, including double lapels, large lapels and pipa lapels, long sleeves, short sleeves, large sleeves and narrow sleeves, but all of them are flat cuffs. It was not until the late Qing Dynasty and after the Revolution of 1911 that western clothing was gradually introduced, and it is still people's daily clothing.