Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Traditional customs - Traditional costumes for New Year greetings in past dynasties.

Traditional costumes for New Year greetings in past dynasties.

The clothes in Shang and Zhou dynasties were mainly the "clothes" on the top, and the collar opened to the right; Wearing "petticoat" below is the traditional dress of skirt; A wide band is tied around the waist, and a skirt hairpin is added in front of the abdomen to cover the knees, so it is also called "covering the knees".

Men's wear:

Coronation: the most expensive dress. Coronation is the main ceremonial dress, which is worn in the ceremony. Its clothing style is mainly composed of crown, clothing, dress, knee cover and other elements. The main body of the coronation suit is mysterious clothes embroidered with chapters. In the most solemn ceremony, nine chapters of coronation suit are put on. Under the clothes is a white shirt lined with white gauze, which was generally white in ancient times. Knee pads in front of the lower body. The emperor's kneepads are cinnabar, and the princes are yellow cinnabar. Shoes have double soles, leather soles and wooden soles, and the soles are higher. The emperors of the Zhou Dynasty wore red at grand ceremonies.

Clothing: its grandeur is second only to coronation, and the form of clothing is similar to coronation, but the biggest difference is that it is not stamped. Clothing can be divided into knighthood, guard and official. Their main difference lies in the color of the crown and the clothes they wear.

Duan Xuan: This is the official costume of the emperor, and it is also the royal costume of princes and ministers.

Deep clothes: In ancient times, all clothes were not connected from top to bottom, but this kind of clothes was connected from top to bottom, cut separately but stitched from top to bottom, so it was called "deep clothes" because the quilt was deep.

Women's wear:

Yi Yi: Sacrifice the salary of the former king for the queen.

Zhai Zhai Zhai: Sacrifice clothes for the queen from the king and Mrs. Hou Bofu. It's a blue dress with twelve chapters on it, and the color is also five colors.

Quezhai: For the queen, she helped the little gods and their children sacrifice clothes from the temple. It's a red dress with a Zhai pattern engraved with a red belt.

Juyi: The Queen was ordered-the dress for women to sacrifice to the silkworm god Mulberry, and it was also the dress for the vassal's wife to sacrifice to the ancestral temple from her husband.

Exhibition clothing: also known as the queen's clothing for welcoming the king and banquet guests, it is also the sacrificial clothing for Dr. Qing's wife to help her husband sacrifice to the ancestral temple.

Lu Yi: It's the official costume of Empress Yan before her death, and it's also the sacrificial costume of the literati's wife assisting her husband.

Pure clothes: the wedding dress of a noble daughter. [ 1]

Chunqiu warring States clothing

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the clothes were straight gowns, and the clothes and skirts were connected together to wrap the body. This kind of clothes is called "deep clothes". There is also a kind of "light clothes", that is, wide clothes without lining. His traditional dress still wears "Yang" on his head; Ai is a headscarf, which is used to wrap hair and prevent it from falling freely.

Men's wear:

Qindai clothing

Qin and Han Dynasties is an important stage of China's costume color, that is, he infiltrated the thought of Yin and Yang and Five Elements into his costume color thought. The Qin dynasty was very short, so the general clothing colors should follow the habits of the Warring States period except those stipulated by Qin Shihuang.

Qin Shihuang, a man's clothing, stipulated that the big dress was a black sacrificial dress under the coat, and black was the color on it. It also stipulates that officials with three or more products wear green robes, and Shu Ren wears white robes. Traditional women's clothing Qin Shihuang liked the concubines in the palace to wear beautiful clothes, and put wealth first. Because he subtracts etiquette, mainly to cater to his personal preference for concubines. But it is still dominated by five elements.

Han dynasty clothing

The main costumes of the Han dynasty are robes, straight single clothes, short clothes and skirts. In the Han dynasty, because the textile and embroidery industries were very developed, the rich could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear shorts and trousers, and the poor wear short brown (coarse cloth) shorts. Women in the Han Dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts. The most famous traditional dress is "fairy women's dress".

Men's wear:

Costumes: The sacrificial costumes of the Han Dynasty inherited the practice of abolishing the "six crowns" in the Qin Dynasty, and adopted coronation as the costume for offering sacrifices to heaven and earth.

Coronation dress: the most distinguished ceremonial dress, worn by Emperor Tiandi, Duke Sangong, Duke Hou and Doctor Qing when they worship heaven and earth.

Long-crowned dress: for the use of hosts and deacons, it is used to worship ancestral temples and various small sacrifices, such as five mountains, four blasphemies, mountains and rivers, country and other ceremonies.

Grooming crown: equivalent to the crown of the Zhou Dynasty. Wear it when Biyong salutes ministers and doctors.

Leather crown clothing: This kind of crown clothing is worn by deacons during the big shooting ceremony. The clothes are linen, soap head and plain clothes.

Li: From the Qin Dynasty, official uniforms were used as courtiers, and in the Han Dynasty, from emperors to humble officials, official uniforms were also used as courtiers and were also the main uniforms. That is, robes made of deep clothes have different names just because people of different identities wear different crowns. The colors of court costumes in Han Dynasty follow five colors, namely, Chun Lv, Xia Zhu, Xia Huang, Qiu Bai and Dong Hei. The royal robes are lined with the Hanfu of the commanding leader.

Women's wear:

Temple costume: equivalent to the Yi costume of the Zhou Dynasty, it is the most distinguished kind of women's costume. The clothes of the Empress Dowager and the Empress Dowager entered the temple, and the clothes of the Empress visited the temple. Their clothes were under the soap.

Silkworm clothing: equivalent to the clothes of the Zhou Dynasty. Every March, the queen leads her husband and wife to wear it when they kiss silkworms.

Li: From Mrs. Shi in 2000 to the empress, silkworm clothes are all royal clothes.

Wei Jin nan Bei Chao clothing

Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were a period of great changes in the history of ancient Chinese costumes. At this time, Hu fu became the fashion at that time because a large number of Hu people moved to the Central Plains. Tightness, round neck and split are the characteristics of Khufu.

Men's wear:

Costume: Except for the Northern Zhou Dynasty, there is still only one largest costume, which is roughly the same as that of the Han Dynasty, but the main color of traditional costumes is slightly different.

Flat coronation clothes: The clothes at all levels are similar in form and color, except for the chapter patterns on the clothes, which are twelve chapters of the emperor, nine chapters of the three princes, seven chapters of the Chinese worm under the age of nine, embroidered by the emperor and woven by the officials.

Coronation of the Northern Zhou Dynasty: Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty successfully carried out the policy of sinicization and vigorously promoted the system of rites in ancient China, so the costume color system in the Northern Zhou Dynasty was based on rites.

Crown dress: a dress that pays tribute to the public or the public. The clothes are black and plain, and Hanfu has a soap collar.

Court clothes: Like the Han Dynasty, the court clothes of emperors and officials are distinguished by the crowns they wear, and both have five-color court clothes. However, in the Han dynasty, soap court clothes and crimson court clothes were the main clothes, while in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, crimson court clothes were the main clothes. Crown dress: During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, all dynasties used this dress as the imperial dress of the emperor, and it was also a second-class dress. Wearing a crimson tulle robe, a shirt trimmed with soap and black shoes.

Travel crown clothing: worn by the crown prince and other kings, wearing scarlet robes, white gauze robes with soap edges and white curved collars.

Guanbai Crown Clothing: Mainly crimson yarn. However, the Chen system is more complicated. Those with high official positions take Zhu clothes as their royal clothes, while those with low official positions take soap clothes as their royal clothes, with white gauze on the side.

Tasting clothes: Officials who work on the roof and stay in the guard all wear five-color clothes embroidered with brocade, which is called tasting clothes.

Regular clothes: mainly clothes with pleated trousers, which are widely used. From aristocrats to ordinary people, they can be used as imperial clothes, military uniforms and casual clothes.

Women's wear:

Queen's Palace Dress: It is the most grand dress among women's official dresses, and also the wedding dress of the Queen.

Sacrificial clothes for entering the temple: sacrificial clothes for concubines, concubines and married women. Jin, Southern Dynasties, Song and Chen dynasties, it was all soap on top of soap.

Silkworm pro-dress: the dress of the queen silkworm pro-gift, all of which are green above and light below.

Silkworm support clothing: the clothing of concubines, concubines and maids to help the queen kiss silkworms, which was light green in the Jin and Southern Dynasties. In the Southern Dynasties, the Song Dynasty was a youth.

Court dress: The above three dynasties all considered women's court dress.

Bizhou dress: The dress for female officials is as complicated as that for male officials, and it uses many colors, which is very different from previous dynasties.

Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties clothing

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, most people wore long gowns with white round necks, while the lower classes wore "coarse brown" made of hemp and wool. Women in Sui Dynasty wore narrow round neck or collared coat, long skirt with high waist and two streamers around the waist. Women's dresses in Tang Dynasty are mainly traditional dresses, skirts and dresses. Never put off till tomorrow what you can is a long scarf over your shoulder. There is also a special short-sleeved half-arm shirt that is worn outside the gown. In the early Tang Dynasty, women also liked to wear small sleeve clothes, striped trousers, embroidered shoes and other western-style clothes, and they also wore "separation of powers" and "curtain caps" on their heads. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's dresses were most popular in four colors: red, purple, yellow and green.

Men's wear:

Coronation: Sacrificial dress, the longest ceremonial dress. From the emperor to the official.

Royal dress: a second-class dress after coronation.

Tian Tong's crown costume: the most grand royal costume of the son of heaven.

Travel Crown Dress: The most grand royal dress for the Crown Prince and Crown Prince.

Clothing: also known as court clothing.

Public service: a third-class dress next to crown service and court service.

Clothes: The son of heaven took it when he was in the court in the new moon, and the crown prince took it when Wang Shuo was in power.

Public service: the crown prince will wear it in the regular court in May and the winter solstice in January.

Flat scarf: military uniform.

Black silk hat clothing: the clothing worn by the emperor and the crown prince to watch the court, hear the lawsuit and entertain guests, with black silk as the hat.

Heijiefu: A scholar who has no public office wears it when he is called into the court.

Service uniform: This is the most commonly used kind of clothing.

Yellow robe: The son of heaven wore a yellow robe at first.

Clothing: the tradition of distinguishing product officer positions by different clothing colors.

Women's wear:

Big dress:

Dress: the most grand big dress.

Zhai Zhai Zhai: The heaviest big dress of the Crown Prince and Princess.

Conventional clothing:

Tsing Yi: The queen wore it when she met the emperor.

Zhu Yi: The Queen wore it when she met the guests at the banquet.

Hua Chai Li Yi Hua Chai Li Yi: Wedding dress.

Traditional costumes in Song Dynasty

Men's wear in the Song Dynasty generally followed the style of the Tang Dynasty. Most people wear a robe with a collar or a round neck, and they put their clothes on their belts when they do things. The clothes are black and white. Traditional Clothing At that time, retired officials and scholar-officials wore a double-breasted gown called "straight coat", with large sleeves, black edges at cuffs, neckline and corners, and a square cap on their heads called "Dongpo towel".

In Song Dynasty, women wore a short jacket with narrow sleeves and a long skirt. Usually, they wear small long-sleeved coats and double-breasted jackets, much like vests today. The neckline and front of the coat are embroidered with beautiful lace.

Traditional costumes of Yuan Dynasty

The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by Mongols. Mongolians often braid a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. Others braid it into two braids, and then wrap it into two big rings to hang behind their ears, wearing Dai Li hats on their heads. The clothes of people in the Yuan Dynasty were mainly "drying clothes", which were short robes, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse. Traditional Costume Noble women in the Yuan Dynasty often wore a tall, long hat with a strange shape, which was called a "crown". The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them. Ordinary civilian women wear black robes.

Traditional clothing in Ming dynasty

Zhu Yuanzhang unified the world, and Hanfu was generally restored in the Ming Dynasty. After absorbing the habits of the Hu people in the Tang Dynasty, Hanfu developed.

In the men's wear of the Ming Dynasty, most adults wore long, wide and straight clothes with green cloth and square flat towels on their heads, while ordinary people wore short coats and headscarves. At this time, a small hat with six petals and eight petals sewn together appeared, which looked like a watermelon cut in half. It was first worn by servants, but later it became popular because it was convenient to wear. This is the predecessor of the "melon hat" in the Qing Dynasty.

Most of the ladies in the Ming Dynasty wore robes with big red sleeves, while most women could only wear pink, purple and green and some light colors. Ping wears a shirt and a long skirt every day with a ribbon around her waist. Skirts are very wide, and there are many styles, such as pleated skirts, phoenix-tailed skirts and yuet skirts.

Traditional clothing in Qing dynasty

After the Qing Dynasty entered the customs, in order to consolidate the rule, the "Hair Shaving Order" and "Dressing Order" were promulgated, forcing the indigenous people of all ethnic groups in China to change their hair accessories and wear Manchu costumes. This process is called "shaving one's head and changing clothes", and then people of all ethnic groups in China were forced to put on "cheongsam" and "mandarin jacket", which changed the traditional dress of China, which did not conform to the normal historical laws and changed the traditional culture and tradition of China. Emperor Qianlong belongs to a king who loves great success and fame. While forbidding people of all ethnic groups in China to wear their own national costumes to maintain their rule, he and his royal family wore Hanfu for many times to participate in court entertainment activities.

The hat worn on weekdays in the Qing Dynasty was a melon hat, which was formerly the Liuhe unified hat of the Ming Dynasty. The color is black outside and red inside. The cheongsam worn by Manchu women was wide and big in the early days, but later it became a waistline, and a "vest" was added outside the cheongsam. Their shoes are also very special, they are flowerpot-style high-top shoes.

Minguo clothing

With the development of agricultural economy in the Republic of China, agricultural areas and semi-agricultural and semi-pastoral areas appeared in Mongolia, and Mongolian national costumes were also divided into pastoral areas, semi-agricultural and semi-pastoral areas and agricultural areas. The change of the economic composition of traditional animal husbandry has affected the basic style of clothing, so short robes and Han costumes with national characteristics have appeared in these semi-agricultural and semi-pastoral areas and agricultural areas in southern Mongolia with developed agriculture. Mongolian men wearing felt hats, tunics and cloth boots can be seen everywhere in these areas. In the vast pastoral areas, Mongolians still maintain traditional tribal national costumes.

At the end of the Republic of China, although the privileged rule system of Mongolian maharaja Zasak was not fundamentally touched, the economic system of aristocratic lords was greatly impacted. The rich and the poor in society are not divided according to the aristocratic Taiji and Alabatu, but according to the amount of personal property. As a result, ruined Tai Chi and rich sugarcane people appeared in society. The official robes gradually disappeared, and the nobles and sugarcane people gradually approached. After 1930s, T-shaped, Zi Ling and Lingfa were not noble symbols in people's minds, but hateful symbols. Even the nobles themselves thought that they were not as sacred as before. As far as clothing itself is concerned, in people's minds, not only princes and nobles enjoy it, but also others. So ordinary people can put on gorgeous clothes as long as they have money. This change in clothing also means that the feudal system is on the verge of extinction.

After the founding of the Republic of China, although the official clothes of princes and nobles tended to disappear, Nuoyan Bayan (the name of Mongolian princes and nobles) still occupied the vast majority of Mongolian national costumes by virtue of its political and economic status. No matter in the types, fabrics, colors and decorations of clothing, or in the clothing, we also pay attention to luxury, diversity, generosity and comfort.